Re: [mh] [OT] Random on/off

[David M. <dm...@ci...>]

Zen Tormey <ztormey <at> gmail.com> writes:

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> So your advice is basically to throw away all my X10 stuff and start over?It 
won't happen; if I don't manage to fix my X10 setup, I'll go back to
> manual, because I can afford 29 cents wall switches (canadian).I'm willing 
to get a better transceiver, one for the whole house, not two.
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> I don't have a solution to your issue, but before you consider
> scrapping your system, I thought I might "vouch", as it were, for the
> X10 brand stuff.
> First off, I agree with David, the X10 brand products are bottom of the 
barrel as far as X10 compatible devices go.  
> That said, I'm also on the less-friendly side of the income brackets, and 
X10 brand stuff is what I could afford.
> (I've slowly been upgrading them piece by piece with nicer stuff, but it's a 
slow process.)
> Now it is very possible that the low quality "X10.com" products are
> causing your problem, but I would like to say for the record, that I
> have been using them in my home almost exclusively for close to a year
> without any major issues. (such as what you're describing)
> I use the same RF stick-on switches, motion detectors, and a
> combination of "socket rocket" screw-in modules, standard wall outlet
> lamp modules, and the push-button in-wall switch replacements (some
> with and some without the local dimming hack (the solder one, not the
> squeeze method)).

Most of the stuff can work.  I too have a few stick-a-switches and at least 
one of those socket things.  No problems with them to date and some of them 
are ancient.  The motion/light sensors work well.  I have lots of the outlets, 
but I think those are made by X10Pro (a different outfit.) (?)  I've heard 
that the X10 wall switches are pretty bad and I think the solution is to 
replace the one that is having problems.  A good upgrade would be a whole-
house transceiver.

BTW, I remember that the "Entertainment Anywhere" UR is the one that sends 
on/off commands when you use some of the PC functions.  In other words, the PC 
receiver (w800rf) gets the correct UR command and the WGL transceiver reports 
an ON or OFF on the power line (house code I as I recall.)  It is not random.  
The same command comes through every time.  Several of the keys use up most of 
the affected house code.  WGL and X10 must be in disagreement on the wireless 
protocol.

> I do occasionally have a light turn on (or off) randomly, but it happens 
VERY rarely (maybe once or twice a month).

Usually this is a PLC command that got corrupted by noise.  That is why 
spacing the unit and house codes properly is important.  I almost never see it 
anymore.  Regardless, it is not the fault of the cheaper components (unless 
they are so defective that they emit noise.)

> I'm sorry I don't have a solution for you, but I did want to pipe in
> and mention that the equipment you're using CAN work successfully.
> A few other things you could check -
> Do you have any noisy appliances very close (on the power line)
> to your switches or lamps?  Try unplugging various things and see
> if it helps at all.  If it does, you may need a filter or isolator.
>   Try different house codes, as David suggested.
>   Hook a computer interface such as a CM11A up to your line and use
> a program like Active Home or (preferably) MH to log all of your power
> line activity.  Once logging is in place, you can systematically
> disable one switch/sensor/module at a time until you find the
> culprit.  Not as good or quick of a solution as using a signal
> meter, but much cheaper.
>   Are you using more than one transceiver?  That one piece of
> equipment could be faulty, and be causing your problem.  Try
> unplugging it for a night or two.  If there is no random light
> show, your problem is likely related to the transceiver or
> switches.  If nothing else, you've eliminated the rest of your
> system (lamp modules, in-wall switches, etc) as candidates.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.I'll try to log X10 codes using MH, it might help me to find 
the problem.
> 

It should help.  If the log shows the command that turned on the mystery 
light, then the switch is probably not at fault.  If it isn't logged then it 
is likely a defective switch.

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