From: Vesa <di...@nb...> - 2014-02-06 20:03:47
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On 02/06/2014 06:51 PM, Bill Y. wrote: > > I was debating if the outer bevel was going to be large enough. It's > often hard to judge when you've been staring at an SVG all day :). > I've increased the thickness of the outer bevel. Shifting the back > area in would be difficult due to how it was constructed, and I wanted > it to seem like it was slightly more recessed than the gold. I do not > want to put screws on, because I wanted to capture more of the feeling > of an instruments vs a piece of tech hardware. If it still doesn't > read, I have a few ideas I'll try to help emphasize that area a bit more. Well currently there's no depth at all in the corner area. It looks like it's on the same exact plane as the wood paneling, the texture just suddenly changes into the grey thing, and that's not good, it looks unfinished. I think you're overthinking the screws issue wrt. instrument/tech, for one thing - look at an old hammond organ, which is the first instrument that comes to mind to me when thinking of wooden boxes that make sound... plenty of screws in there. Or even a xylophone, those can have screws too. But mainly I mean if you make it look like a metallic plaque, that's something that could well be on some old-school electric instrument or piece of equipment, you know, as a sort of "seal of quality" thing. I don't think it would necessarily look out of place at all. Either way, screws or not, you're really going to have to figure out how this grey area fits into the style of artwork you're going for. > > The purpose of the blue was two fold. First it was mean to darken the > background around the knobs so the text and knobs read better. > Secondly it was to add visual interest to the gold. I've not moved or > changed the knobs because I was trying to do a simple substitution of > the art background. Also I'm not sure how one would move the knobs or > replace their art in the final version, as there ae no unique knob art > for this unit. Don't worry about that. I can move the knobs or any other elements around for you, you just concentrate on making the artwork as good as possible. If you want to do unique knobs (which I think might be best since you're going for an old-school type graphical style), the way it works is that you draw the knobs sans the indicator line on the artwork itself, and make a note of the position they're at. You'll also need to write the knob labels on the artwork if we do it this way. I get what you were going for with the blue, but I don't think it's quite working as intended. It just doesn't seem to fit the general mood of the instrument. > > > All that being said here are the updates with blue, red and a dark > yellow knob area. I'm also including a close up of the art with the > filters turned off. The mallets are drawn svg vectors so people are > aware it's wasn't an image matting issue. It was an illusion caused by > an emboss effect that wasn't reading. ;) > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwJ-TpACk7OsMWZoNGh0eUVEZEk/edit?usp=sharing > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwJ-TpACk7OsYUJiOG9XMXJSeGs/edit?usp=sharing > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwJ-TpACk7Osd2t4SkF0eUlfd0U/edit?usp=sharing > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwJ-TpACk7OseFctbkx3TXVXajA/edit?usp=sharing > I think the red looks quite nice. Also, I'm going to make a suggestion here: since you're going for a more photorealistic style, with woodpanelings and everything, I believe it would be much easier to get right if you'd switch to doing the artwork in GIMP or some other bitmap software, as vector graphics aren't very well suitable for this kind of work. |