Hi
I thought you were using com3? The log file indicates you are using com4. But it is the Com 3 outgoing HC-05 'Spp Dev' connection that you need for BT (according to info above).
There is NO response from controller. So it assumed v2 (probably not a good assumption) No response means the command is
1. not reaching the BT device, or
2. the BT device is wired incorrectly, or
3. BT is not enabled in the firmware, or
4. The wrong COM port is being selected, or
5. some other issue
So
1. Confirm that Bluetooth is enabled in the firmware (if it is not enable it and then reprogram the controller)
2. Confirm that Com3 is your outgoing BT connection
3. Confirm that in your Bluetooth Settings on Windows you have the HC05 device installed
Now after this, the easy way is to turn on the controller with 12V. No USB cable
1. Confirm that the BT HC05 device shows as paired in Windows
2. Start the Arduino IDE
3. Start the serial port monitor from the IDE
3. Select COM3 (the outgoing port) with 9600, no CR or LF
4. Type in v# and then click SEND button in serial port monitor
5. If BT is working then you will see this response in the text window "v329$"
6. If there is no response, then either the BT device is not paired, or using the wrong comport, or bt device is not enabled in firmware, or bt device is not wired correctly, or bt device is stuffed
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
No response to V# on serial monitor. I will get back to you in a few days
once I have explored all the options.
Thanks for the help. I will be in touch.
All the best,
Hi
I thought you were using com3? The log file indicates you are using com4.
But it is the Com 3 outgoing HC-05 'Spp Dev' connection that you need for
BT (according to info above).
There is NO response from controller. So it assumed v2 (probably not a
good assumption) No response means the command is
1. not reaching the BT device, or
2. the BT device is wired incorrectly, or
3. BT is not enabled in the firmware, or
4. The wrong COM port is being selected, or
5. some other issue
So
1. Confirm that Bluetooth is enabled in the firmware (if it is not enable
it and then reprogram the controller)
2. Confirm that Com3 is your outgoing BT connection
3. Confirm that in your Bluetooth Settings on Windows you have the HC05
device installed
Now after this, the easy way is to turn on the controller with 12V. No USB
cable
1. Confirm that the BT HC05 device shows as paired in Windows
2. Start the Arduino IDE
3. Start the serial port monitor from the IDE
3. Select COM3 (the outgoing port) with 9600, no CR or LF
4. Type in v# and then click SEND button in serial port monitor
5. If BT is working then you will see this response in the text window
"v329$"
6. If there is no response, then either the BT device is not paired, or
using the wrong comport, or bt device is not enabled in firmware, or bt
device is not wired correctly, or bt device is stuffed
Sure v#. I think that I must have misinterpreted the Bluetooth testing. I
used a windows based serial monitor (not the one associated with the
Arduino IDE. When I entered commands into the send box after connecting
with the BT all text entered into the send section were echo'd back into
receive on pressing send. I did not use the arduino based serial monitor as
the windows serial monitor appeared to stop the IDE from using the port.
Here is the .ino
HI
**When I entered commands into the send box after connecting
with the BT all text entered into the send section were echo'd back into
receive on pressing send.
Then you were not talking to the controller as it shouldnt do this with firmware 329
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Hi Robert,
WooHoo! OK its working on the breadboard. I have now pulled everything off
the stripboard again and examined the solder and channels with a magnifier
and I can't see anything obvious and the circuit in regard to the BT checks
out with the multimeter. I have just plugged the nano back into the
stripboard and plugged in the BT only and it now works. The issue
transposing btRx and btTx was only related to v329 I can't even remember
messing with that part of the code but I must have and wrote it back
transposed and did not understand the significance of doing that. All the
other versions are the right way round. Mea culpa and very embarrassing.
So I will now plug everything else back in bit by bit and keep testing the
BT to try to see what is causing the problems. That I can deal with.
I can't thank you enough for your help and patience in troubleshooting this
problem. You really have gone above and beyond.
My very best wishes
Mike
It's all back together again and still working!! The frustrating thing is I
could not identify what was stopping it from working with the new code etc
in the built up state. Once I had it working on the breadboard it continued
to work at every stage of the rewiring. The main thing is that we can now
use it remotely with the bluetooth, so I am grateful for that. Now we just
have to get the scope dust cap servo to work but we seem to have cracked
the hardest part and now the hardware is done we just have to adjust the
code to get the closure speed just right. We should then have a fully
automated set up (next stop a dome Ha Ha).
Thanks for your patience.
Mike
Hi Robert,
WooHoo! OK its working on the breadboard. I have now pulled everything off
the stripboard again and examined the solder and channels with a magnifier
and I can't see anything obvious and the circuit in regard to the BT checks
out with the multimeter. I have just plugged the nano back into the
stripboard and plugged in the BT only and it now works. The issue
transposing btRx and btTx was only related to v329 I can't even remember
messing with that part of the code but I must have and wrote it back
transposed and did not understand the significance of doing that. All the
other versions are the right way round. Mea culpa and very embarrassing.
So I will now plug everything else back in bit by bit and keep testing the
BT to try to see what is causing the problems. That I can deal with.
I can't thank you enough for your help and patience in troubleshooting this
problem. You really have gone above and beyond.
My very best wishes
Mike
On Wed, Apr 4, 2018 at 1:45 PM, brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
wrote:
You have made some changes to the firmware yes?
I see this
ifdef BLUETOOTH
SoftwareSerial btSerial(btRX, btTX);
when it should be
ifdef BLUETOOTH
SoftwareSerial btSerial( btTX, btRX);
which would definately cause an issue as you have reversed TX and RX
Michael
Congrats on getting it to all go in the end, a reward for your perseverance.
Note that the temp probes need to be located near the mirros/lens assembly, but whatever you do, do not place then under heater straps else you will be measuring the heater strap temp and not that if the optics. The heat strap can be placed about 1" away from the lens assembly on a refractor, with the temp probe directly over the lens cell.
I color code my straps in pairs (heat probe + heat strap) so I know they go together as channel 1, blue for channel 2 etc. I just used some heat shrink that I cut down the middle, fitted over the wire near the plug, then applied heat from the flame of a cigarette lighter (aout 1" away) to shrink the heat shrink onto the cable (moving the flame all the time so as not to burn the heat shrink or cable).
Best wishes
Robert
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Hi Bob,
Great idea colour coding the straps. It would be easy for me as the sockets are already colour coded. Even I couldn't stuff it up. ?
Cheers
Mike
From: brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
Sent: Friday, April 6, 2018 3:51:27 AM
To: [arduinonanodewcontrollerpro:discussion]
Subject: [arduinonanodewcontrollerpro:discussion] HC05 Bluetooth connection problems
Michael
Congrats on getting it to all go in the end, a reward for your perseverance.
Note that the temp probes need to be located near the mirros/lens assembly, but whatever you do, do not place then under heater straps else you will be measuring the heater strap temp and not that if the optics. The heat strap can be placed about 1" away from the lens assembly on a refractor, with the temp probe directly over the lens cell.
I color code my straps in pairs (heat probe + heat strap) so I know they go together as channel 1, blue for channel 2 etc. I just used some heat shrink that I cut down the middle, fitted over the wire near the plug, then applied heat from the flame of a cigarette lighter (aout 1" away) to shrink the heat shrink onto the cable (moving the flame all the time so as not to burn the heat shrink or cable).
Hi
I thought you were using com3? The log file indicates you are using com4. But it is the Com 3 outgoing HC-05 'Spp Dev' connection that you need for BT (according to info above).
There is NO response from controller. So it assumed v2 (probably not a good assumption) No response means the command is
1. not reaching the BT device, or
2. the BT device is wired incorrectly, or
3. BT is not enabled in the firmware, or
4. The wrong COM port is being selected, or
5. some other issue
So
1. Confirm that Bluetooth is enabled in the firmware (if it is not enable it and then reprogram the controller)
2. Confirm that Com3 is your outgoing BT connection
3. Confirm that in your Bluetooth Settings on Windows you have the HC05 device installed
Now after this, the easy way is to turn on the controller with 12V. No USB cable
1. Confirm that the BT HC05 device shows as paired in Windows
2. Start the Arduino IDE
3. Start the serial port monitor from the IDE
3. Select COM3 (the outgoing port) with 9600, no CR or LF
4. Type in v# and then click SEND button in serial port monitor
5. If BT is working then you will see this response in the text window "v329$"
6. If there is no response, then either the BT device is not paired, or using the wrong comport, or bt device is not enabled in firmware, or bt device is not wired correctly, or bt device is stuffed
Hi Robert,
No response to V# on serial monitor. I will get back to you in a few days
once I have explored all the options.
Thanks for the help. I will be in touch.
All the best,
Mike
On Tue, Apr 3, 2018 at 4:24 AM, brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
wrote:
U mean v# right? Commands are case sensitive
Did you not say that the BT test program worked fine?
Please send me the .ino file you are using
Sure v#. I think that I must have misinterpreted the Bluetooth testing. I
used a windows based serial monitor (not the one associated with the
Arduino IDE. When I entered commands into the send box after connecting
with the BT all text entered into the send section were echo'd back into
receive on pressing send. I did not use the arduino based serial monitor as
the windows serial monitor appeared to stop the IDE from using the port.
Here is the .ino
Mike
On Wed, Apr 4, 2018 at 5:10 AM, brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
wrote:
HI
**When I entered commands into the send box after connecting
with the BT all text entered into the send section were echo'd back into
receive on pressing send.
Then you were not talking to the controller as it shouldnt do this with firmware 329
You have made some changes to the firmware yes?
I see this
#ifdef BLUETOOTH
SoftwareSerial btSerial(btRX, btTX);
when it should be
#ifdef BLUETOOTH
SoftwareSerial btSerial( btTX, btRX);
which would definately cause an issue as you have reversed TX and RX
Hi Robert,
WooHoo! OK its working on the breadboard. I have now pulled everything off
the stripboard again and examined the solder and channels with a magnifier
and I can't see anything obvious and the circuit in regard to the BT checks
out with the multimeter. I have just plugged the nano back into the
stripboard and plugged in the BT only and it now works. The issue
transposing btRx and btTx was only related to v329 I can't even remember
messing with that part of the code but I must have and wrote it back
transposed and did not understand the significance of doing that. All the
other versions are the right way round. Mea culpa and very embarrassing.
So I will now plug everything else back in bit by bit and keep testing the
BT to try to see what is causing the problems. That I can deal with.
I can't thank you enough for your help and patience in troubleshooting this
problem. You really have gone above and beyond.
My very best wishes
Mike
On Wed, Apr 4, 2018 at 1:45 PM, brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
wrote:
Hi Robert,
It's all back together again and still working!! The frustrating thing is I
could not identify what was stopping it from working with the new code etc
in the built up state. Once I had it working on the breadboard it continued
to work at every stage of the rewiring. The main thing is that we can now
use it remotely with the bluetooth, so I am grateful for that. Now we just
have to get the scope dust cap servo to work but we seem to have cracked
the hardest part and now the hardware is done we just have to adjust the
code to get the closure speed just right. We should then have a fully
automated set up (next stop a dome Ha Ha).
Thanks for your patience.
Mike
On Wed, Apr 4, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Michael Hamilton mike1491@users.sourceforge.net wrote:
Michael
Congrats on getting it to all go in the end, a reward for your perseverance.
Note that the temp probes need to be located near the mirros/lens assembly, but whatever you do, do not place then under heater straps else you will be measuring the heater strap temp and not that if the optics. The heat strap can be placed about 1" away from the lens assembly on a refractor, with the temp probe directly over the lens cell.
I color code my straps in pairs (heat probe + heat strap) so I know they go together as channel 1, blue for channel 2 etc. I just used some heat shrink that I cut down the middle, fitted over the wire near the plug, then applied heat from the flame of a cigarette lighter (aout 1" away) to shrink the heat shrink onto the cable (moving the flame all the time so as not to burn the heat shrink or cable).
Best wishes
Robert
Hi Bob,
Great idea colour coding the straps. It would be easy for me as the sockets are already colour coded. Even I couldn't stuff it up. ?
Cheers
Mike
Get Outlook for Androidhttps://aka.ms/ghei36
From: brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net
Sent: Friday, April 6, 2018 3:51:27 AM
To: [arduinonanodewcontrollerpro:discussion]
Subject: [arduinonanodewcontrollerpro:discussion] HC05 Bluetooth connection problems
Michael
Congrats on getting it to all go in the end, a reward for your perseverance.
Note that the temp probes need to be located near the mirros/lens assembly, but whatever you do, do not place then under heater straps else you will be measuring the heater strap temp and not that if the optics. The heat strap can be placed about 1" away from the lens assembly on a refractor, with the temp probe directly over the lens cell.
I color code my straps in pairs (heat probe + heat strap) so I know they go together as channel 1, blue for channel 2 etc. I just used some heat shrink that I cut down the middle, fitted over the wire near the plug, then applied heat from the flame of a cigarette lighter (aout 1" away) to shrink the heat shrink onto the cable (moving the flame all the time so as not to burn the heat shrink or cable).
Best wishes
Robert
HC05 Bluetooth connection problemshttps://sourceforge.net/p/arduinonanodewcontrollerpro/discussion/general/thread/9db91be2/?limit=25&page=1#1795
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