Great project! Thank you for your hard work. I just wanted to share that I
have successfully built this programmer. To me the hardest part was getting
the 18F2550 programed. Once I accomplished that I plugged it in and all
worked. I was able to program my second 18F2550 (backup) using the open
programmer which I then tested by replacing my original 18F2550. I can not
wait to put this to use as I have not had much luck with a serial programmer.
I have been able to read a 16F886 also but I do not have anything to program
it with at the moment. Thank you for making and posting this project.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
hello brother, i am very new in making pcb and programming, i also developed pcb and install all component, i am try to develop with usb but i am very confused about Resistance valu, i am using 18f2550 so will you please guide me, and also want full parts list for all 8 board, if possible will you please sent me photos of you developed boards.
thanking you
Hitesh Patel
Mob : +91-08128109333
E-mail : hitesh9002@yahoo.co.in
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
I have made three of this programmer. The first still works but I was just getting started making my own boards so I thought I could do better. The second looks better but never seemed to work consistently. The third is my latest and to me looks satisfactory. I have also included a picture of some of the attachment boards I have made.
hello brother how are you. can you tell me the capacitor value u used in main board instead of PF i want all three capacitor value. and second thing that you change the leg position of BN557
willing to wait your replay.
thanking you
hiteshpatel
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
c1 100uF 63V - Nichicon PW series - Why 63V? Because it allowed me to use a can that would sit flush on the board and I had it on hand. A 25V cap would work just as good but the leads would have to be bent and it would stand off the board since it would be in a smaller can.
c2 22pF 50V - generic ceramic cap
c3 22pF 50V - generic ceramic cap
c4 1uF 50V - Nichicon PW series - Why this value? Because I had it on hand.
c6 10uF 50 V - Nichicon PW series - Why 50V? Because it allowed me to use a can that would sit flush on the board and I had it on hand.
c7 100nF 50V - Same as C5
c8 100nF 50V - Same as C5
Now if you cannot use the metric system to convert the values uF or other value then this project may not be for you.
As far as the BC557 goes, I did not use one. I used another transistor of the same type (PNP) but with a different pin out so I had to flip it compared to the silkscreen.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Sorry but this parallel programmer is not suitable: it only writes to devices
with low voltage programming, which unfortunately means that RB5 is reserved
to work as PGM and will cause all sorts of malfunction in the application
circuit. This was the problem on another thread.
If you want to use a parallel programmer choose one with high voltage
programming.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Fully agree with albmcc. I also tried to solve hen-egg problem using this
JDM toy. First of all it only works reliably when powered from USB, not
through diodes directly from LPT. By the way, it's not the first time I face
such issue with devices "powered" from LPT or Serial port. They all work
better, if not to say only, when receive the real 5V from elsewhere.
The second version of JDM works fine using LVP mode, but otherwise it fails.
BE CAREFUL, it seems some people post messages just for the matter of posting.
Can somebody point me out a working circuit to program 18F2550 for the first
time? Maybe directly applying 13V to MCLR pin can help?
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
The "SI-Prog" works as a JDM if you invert the data out. You can build this in
a bread board and a lot of the components are not needed if you are only going
to use it once. I would not use any components that deal with using power from
the serial port, use the external power options.
The reason I used this programmer is that I had built it prior to discovering
this project but it was not reliable and I could not use it with my laptop.
Getting that first chip programmed is difficult but when you get this
programmer working it is great. I hope you find this information useful.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Hen-egg problem has been successfully solved using parallel port programmer
from www.oshonsoft.com. The programmer is based on 74LS06 IC and it did the
job at first attempt. I programmed two 18F2550, inserted them into programmer,
when connected the board to PC the green LED blinked with 4Hz few times then
started to blink with 1Hz. Meanwhile, I was a little bit confused by behaviour
of that proy grammer. When I tried to program the chip it did the job in a
minute or so, then reported that chip is programmed. There was no any error
message. Since there software had a Verify button, I decided to verify the
code, but the verification process gave me an error about some sector values.
My question to Alberto is: can you or can you not tell me that my Open
Programmer will work fine 100% (100 not 99,99) when the following criteria are
met?
1) Programmer board is successfully detected by opgui in both Linux and
windoze.
2) Green LED blinks 4Hz during enumeration and 1Hz during normal operation.
3) All voltages on all corresponding pins during the hardware test are
correct.
Outside of programming a real chip with OpenProgrammer and inserting the
former into a real circuit is there any other way to make sure the latter
functions correctly?
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Conditions 1 implies condition 2, and condition 3 implies the other 2;
condition 3 is sufficient for good operation.
Of course since you built the programmer you will eventually use it and gain
additional confidence when your chips work in an application circuit.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
i use all 25v or any one give me a all value of c1 to c8
C1 22-100uF 25V
C2-3 22pF....................... ? vault
C4 >= 220nF..................... ? vault
C5 100nF........................ ? vault
C6 10uF..........................? vault
C7-8 100nF.......................? vault
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
i have a each 5 piece of PCB and i fail to develop my 1st pcb so i need your help and i want full component list with vault or watt value and also need other board's part list to develop successfully i also want to know how i write my 1st PIC18F2550 and which program i use.......waiting you prompt replay and suggestion.
Component list:
U1 12Mhz quartz (also 4, 8, 16, 20; reconfiguration of input divider options is required)
U2 18F2550 (also 2450,2455,2458,2553,4450,4455,4458,4550,4553)
U3 20p socket.
U4 8p socket.
Q1-2 BC557 (or any PNP, pay attention to polarity)
Q3-4 BC547 (or any NPN, pay attention to polarity)
D1-2 LED
D3 1N4148 (or any diode, better if Shottky)
L1 100uH resistor type or other..........here i want resistor valu on place of 100uh
R1 22 K
R2 12 K
R3 100 K
R4:6 10 K
R7 1M
R8-9 2.2 K
R10 10 K
R11:23 100 Ohm
R24-25 330 K
R26-27 10 K
C1 22-100uF 25V
C2-3 22pF ..................here i want capacitor you used with V value
C4 >= 220nF.................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C5 100nF....................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C6 10uF.....................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C7-8 100nF..................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
CONN1 USB type B
CONN2-3 10 pin female stripline
CONN4 5 pin stripline
Thanking you....
you can also mail me all details on my id hitesh9002@yahoo.co.in
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Hitesh, please use your brains. There is NO MATTER what value you use in this schematics - 25V or 63V. The highest voltage on this boars is 12-12,5 Volts only! You can use any of it. You can also install 400V or even 1000V capacitor there - it will work anyway. =)
Now about "resistor type" inductor. You CANNOT replace it with resistor! That words means only, that inductor looks like resistor - it has almost same body as resistor and its leads mounted to the body in the same way as in resistor. If you don't have "resistor like" inductor - you can use anything else. I used inductor "barrel type" inductor (leads is mounted at the same side of ferrite).
I like this programmer because its simple, don't require specific details which is hard to find and you can use even scrap components, like soviet resistors KT315 or KT3102 (NPN both).
P.S. Sorry for my bad English. I'm from Ukraine.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
I would like to share my experience building my Open Programmer, my first build and it works.
PROBLEM i encountered:
the internal vreg was blown up with no apparent reason, causing usb connection fail.
-solution: i put 3.6v zener, 1k 1/4 watt, 470nf or .47uf mylar cap. it works.
I tried the circuit and conneted to PC. It is not detecting as HID device and showing "USB device not recognized" error, in my windows 10, plz help me to solve this error.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Thanks sir Alberto! Tried and tested the 0.10.0 im playing with io tab resulting connection timeout. Here's my SMD BUILD version using recycled components reducing some parts,using optocoupler, thanks!
Last edit: Anonymous 2016-06-13
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Great project! Thank you for your hard work. I just wanted to share that I
have successfully built this programmer. To me the hardest part was getting
the 18F2550 programed. Once I accomplished that I plugged it in and all
worked. I was able to program my second 18F2550 (backup) using the open
programmer which I then tested by replacing my original 18F2550. I can not
wait to put this to use as I have not had much luck with a serial programmer.
I have been able to read a 16F886 also but I do not have anything to program
it with at the moment. Thank you for making and posting this project.
hello brother, i am very new in making pcb and programming, i also developed pcb and install all component, i am try to develop with usb but i am very confused about Resistance valu, i am using 18f2550 so will you please guide me, and also want full parts list for all 8 board, if possible will you please sent me photos of you developed boards.
thanking you
Hitesh Patel
Mob : +91-08128109333
E-mail : hitesh9002@yahoo.co.in
Hello,
I am not sure what exactly you want. Most of the information you want is on the projects web page: http://openprog.altervista.org/OP_eng.html
I have made three of this programmer. The first still works but I was just getting started making my own boards so I thought I could do better. The second looks better but never seemed to work consistently. The third is my latest and to me looks satisfactory. I have also included a picture of some of the attachment boards I have made.
hello brother how are you. can you tell me the capacitor value u used in main board instead of PF i want all three capacitor value. and second thing that you change the leg position of BN557
willing to wait your replay.
thanking you
hiteshpatel
c1 100uF 63V - Nichicon PW series - Why 63V? Because it allowed me to use a can that would sit flush on the board and I had it on hand. A 25V cap would work just as good but the leads would have to be bent and it would stand off the board since it would be in a smaller can.
c2 22pF 50V - generic ceramic cap
c3 22pF 50V - generic ceramic cap
c4 1uF 50V - Nichicon PW series - Why this value? Because I had it on hand.
c5 100nF 50V - Film cap I had on hand - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ECQ-V1H104JL/P4525-ND/13790
c6 10uF 50 V - Nichicon PW series - Why 50V? Because it allowed me to use a can that would sit flush on the board and I had it on hand.
c7 100nF 50V - Same as C5
c8 100nF 50V - Same as C5
Now if you cannot use the metric system to convert the values uF or other value then this project may not be for you.
As far as the BC557 goes, I did not use one. I used another transistor of the same type (PNP) but with a different pin out so I had to flip it compared to the silkscreen.
thank you brother. to making pcb is new for me that i know but i am learning this thing not for professional work only to get more knowledge ....
thanks & Regards
Hitesh Patel
wow! nice to hear that! I was thankful to the author also for making this usb
programmer..:D
How did you program the first 18F2550??
Would you be interested in programming one for me?? I live in California,USA.
How much??
Used serial or parallel programmer like JDM or ART2003..
like this one..
or this modified version..
or you can bring it to my place I'll program it for FREE with snacks..:D
Sorry but this parallel programmer is not suitable: it only writes to devices
with low voltage programming, which unfortunately means that RB5 is reserved
to work as PGM and will cause all sorts of malfunction in the application
circuit. This was the problem on another thread.
If you want to use a parallel programmer choose one with high voltage
programming.
Fully agree with albmcc. I also tried to solve hen-egg problem using this
JDM toy. First of all it only works reliably when powered from USB, not
through diodes directly from LPT. By the way, it's not the first time I face
such issue with devices "powered" from LPT or Serial port. They all work
better, if not to say only, when receive the real 5V from elsewhere.
The second version of JDM works fine using LVP mode, but otherwise it fails.
BE CAREFUL, it seems some people post messages just for the matter of posting.
Can somebody point me out a working circuit to program 18F2550 for the first
time? Maybe directly applying 13V to MCLR pin can help?
This is what I used to program my initial 18F2550
Hardware:
http://www.ic-prog.com/si-prog-v2_2.pdf
Software:
WinPic800
The "SI-Prog" works as a JDM if you invert the data out. You can build this in
a bread board and a lot of the components are not needed if you are only going
to use it once. I would not use any components that deal with using power from
the serial port, use the external power options.
The reason I used this programmer is that I had built it prior to discovering
this project but it was not reliable and I could not use it with my laptop.
Getting that first chip programmed is difficult but when you get this
programmer working it is great. I hope you find this information useful.
Hen-egg problem has been successfully solved using parallel port programmer
from www.oshonsoft.com. The programmer is based on 74LS06 IC and it did the
job at first attempt. I programmed two 18F2550, inserted them into programmer,
when connected the board to PC the green LED blinked with 4Hz few times then
started to blink with 1Hz. Meanwhile, I was a little bit confused by behaviour
of that proy grammer. When I tried to program the chip it did the job in a
minute or so, then reported that chip is programmed. There was no any error
message. Since there software had a Verify button, I decided to verify the
code, but the verification process gave me an error about some sector values.
My question to Alberto is: can you or can you not tell me that my Open
Programmer will work fine 100% (100 not 99,99) when the following criteria are
met?
1) Programmer board is successfully detected by opgui in both Linux and
windoze.
2) Green LED blinks 4Hz during enumeration and 1Hz during normal operation.
3) All voltages on all corresponding pins during the hardware test are
correct.
Outside of programming a real chip with OpenProgrammer and inserting the
former into a real circuit is there any other way to make sure the latter
functions correctly?
Conditions 1 implies condition 2, and condition 3 implies the other 2;
condition 3 is sufficient for good operation.
Of course since you built the programmer you will eventually use it and gain
additional confidence when your chips work in an application circuit.
Hello brother here i am sending you a part list of main board and i want to know about R11 to 23 100 is this 100hom or 100k
R11:23 100 -------------------------100ohm or 100k i use....!!!!!!!!
It has 100 Ohm value. This resistors protects main microchip from short circuit in data lines.
i use all 25v or any one give me a all value of c1 to c8
C1 22-100uF 25V
C2-3 22pF....................... ? vault
C4 >= 220nF..................... ? vault
C5 100nF........................ ? vault
C6 10uF..........................? vault
C7-8 100nF.......................? vault
i have a each 5 piece of PCB and i fail to develop my 1st pcb so i need your help and i want full component list with vault or watt value and also need other board's part list to develop successfully i also want to know how i write my 1st PIC18F2550 and which program i use.......waiting you prompt replay and suggestion.
Component list:
U1 12Mhz quartz (also 4, 8, 16, 20; reconfiguration of input divider options is required)
U2 18F2550 (also 2450,2455,2458,2553,4450,4455,4458,4550,4553)
U3 20p socket.
U4 8p socket.
Q1-2 BC557 (or any PNP, pay attention to polarity)
Q3-4 BC547 (or any NPN, pay attention to polarity)
D1-2 LED
D3 1N4148 (or any diode, better if Shottky)
L1 100uH resistor type or other..........here i want resistor valu on place of 100uh
R1 22 K
R2 12 K
R3 100 K
R4:6 10 K
R7 1M
R8-9 2.2 K
R10 10 K
R11:23 100 Ohm
R24-25 330 K
R26-27 10 K
C1 22-100uF 25V
C2-3 22pF ..................here i want capacitor you used with V value
C4 >= 220nF.................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C5 100nF....................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C6 10uF.....................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
C7-8 100nF..................here i want V value like 25V or 63V
CONN1 USB type B
CONN2-3 10 pin female stripline
CONN4 5 pin stripline
Thanking you....
you can also mail me all details on my id hitesh9002@yahoo.co.in
Hitesh, please use your brains. There is NO MATTER what value you use in this schematics - 25V or 63V. The highest voltage on this boars is 12-12,5 Volts only! You can use any of it. You can also install 400V or even 1000V capacitor there - it will work anyway. =)
Now about "resistor type" inductor. You CANNOT replace it with resistor! That words means only, that inductor looks like resistor - it has almost same body as resistor and its leads mounted to the body in the same way as in resistor. If you don't have "resistor like" inductor - you can use anything else. I used inductor "barrel type" inductor (leads is mounted at the same side of ferrite).
I like this programmer because its simple, don't require specific details which is hard to find and you can use even scrap components, like soviet resistors KT315 or KT3102 (NPN both).
P.S. Sorry for my bad English. I'm from Ukraine.
I would like to share my experience building my Open Programmer, my first build and it works.
PROBLEM i encountered:
the internal vreg was blown up with no apparent reason, causing usb connection fail.
-solution: i put 3.6v zener, 1k 1/4 watt, 470nf or .47uf mylar cap. it works.
Last edit: Raymond 2014-03-31
hello brother LDSisHere
here i am sending you a resistor details can any one confirm me that i am selected right or wrong value of resistor
R1 22kΩ 5% Red, Red, Orange, Gold
R2 12kΩ 5% Brown, Red, Orange, Gold
R3 100kΩ 5% Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold
R4:6 10kΩ 5% Brown, Black, Orange, Gold
R7 1MΩ 5% Brown, black, green, gold.
R8-9 2.2kΩ 5% Red, red, red, gold.
R10 10kΩ 5% Brown, black, orange, gold.
here i want a % wise resistor or can i use any one of them
R11:23 100Ω 10% Brown, black, brown, silver.
R11:23 100Ω 5% Brown, black, brown, gold.
R11:23 100Ω 1% Brown, black, black, black, brown.
R11:23 100Ω 2% Brown, black, black, black, red.
R24-25 330kΩ 5% Orange, black, yellow, gold.
R26-27 10kΩ 5% Brown, black, orange, gold.
please help me to to find the perfect resistor value
thanking you.
hitesh patel
hitesh9002@yahoo.co.in
5% precision is fine
I tried the circuit and conneted to PC. It is not detecting as HID device and showing "USB device not recognized" error, in my windows 10, plz help me to solve this error.
Check the LED, it should slow down after enumeration
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Thanks sir Alberto! Tried and tested the 0.10.0 im playing with io tab resulting connection timeout. Here's my SMD BUILD version using recycled components reducing some parts,using optocoupler, thanks!
Last edit: Anonymous 2016-06-13