Activity for Nathan Woelfle
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Nathan Woelfle posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Hi Peter, I have released BETA version 2.0.0d which provides multiple options for controlling servo speed. R/ Nathan
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Hi Taylor, Overall, yes, the idea is "relatively easy" to add to the project. I’ve considered adding a flexible heating element, similar to the one you referenced, and it’s something I was planning to investigate in the future. I’ve been focused on software updates and finalizing a couple of PCB designs for the current iteration, so I haven’t had the chance to test the warmth of EL panels to determine if it'll offer any benefit. Over the last five years, I haven’t seen a need for it, but it may depend...
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I'm excited to announce the release of version 2.0.0d, now available in the 2.0.0 BETA RELEASE folder. This update introduces multiple options for controlling the speed and style of servo movement. In addition to the existing linear movement option, which moves the servo in even increments based on the timeToMoveCover variable, you can now select from several new easing functions: Circular, Cubic, Expo, Quadratic, Quartic, Quint, and Sine. These easing functions offer smoother motion by gradually...
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A huge shoutout and thank you to Nial, who has graciously been testing software updates. I have released the 2.0.0 beta version of the DLC in the 2.0.0 BETA RELEASE folder. The latest version includes many improvements to code efficiency and error handling, as well as support for either a solitary Cover or Light Panel, and more. Additionally, support continues for ASCOM, and now also includes INDI. If you are currently using the DLC and want to try the latest version, you will need to uninstall any...
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A huge shoutout and thank you to Nial, who has graciously been testing software updates. I have released the 2.0.0 beta version of the DLC in the 2.0.0 BETA RELEASE folder. The latest version includes many improvements to code efficiency and error handling, as well as support for either a solitary Cover or Light Panel. Additionally, support continues for ASCOM, and now also includes INDI. If you are currently using the DLC and want to try the latest version, you will need to uninstall any existing...
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A huge shoutout and thank you to Nial, who has graciously been testing software updates. I have released the 2.0.0 beta version of the DLC in the 2.0.0 BETA RELEASE folder. The latest version includes many improvements to code efficiency and error handling, as well as support for either a solitary Cover or Light Panel. Additionally, support continues for ASCOM, and now also includes INDI. If you are currently using the DLC and want to try the latest version, please download and use all of the latest...
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A huge thank you to Nial, who has graciously been testing software updates and has also contributed to the project. His files have been added to the STL 3D Parts section in a new folder called 'RC12' for anyone looking to build a cover for their setup.
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Hello Piotr, The current version doesn't contain the ability to control the speed. There is a library called VarSpeedServo that you can use, unfortunately though, it's no longer maintained. I hope to put the final touches on an updated version of the DLC soon that will provide different speed control options. R/ Nathan
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No problem with the delayed response; life can get busy, and I completely understand. Sounds like you had some good distractions. Regarding the voltage, we should only see 12V at the 2-pin terminal when the brightness is at its maximum. We can check voltages, but I'll wait until after you've had a chance to verify the transistors. Regarding your question about the Xiao SEED ESP32C3, they do support Arduino code, so you could use one, but it will require some modifications to the circuits. Take your...
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Hi Damon, Thank you for getting in touch. I'm sorry to hear about the power issue with the panel. My initial suspicion is either a loose wire connection from the transformer to the panel or a malfunctioning component. I've encountered a similar issue before, where a wire connection to the panel became loose over time due to repeated openings and closings. As you've built two panels, if they're close by, a quick troubleshooting step would be to try plugging the affected panel into the other device...
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Fantastic! I'm glad the resolved your issue. You are very welcome. Enjoy! R/ Nathan
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That can happen sometimes depending on the servo used. There are two possible ways to resolve this. First, you can edit the DLC Arduino file and update myServo.attach as follows: myServo.attach(motor, minPulseWidth, maxPulseWidth);, replacing minPulseWidth and maxPulseWidth with your servo information. The second way is to edit Arduino's Servo library. Navigate to the Arduino libraries folder > Servo > src > and edit the Servo.h file. Change the MIN_PULSE_WIDTH and MAX_PULSE_WIDTH. I also recommend...
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Hi Vladimir, I'm glad you found the project. Thank you for your kind words. You're very welcome! When you say servo motor jittering, do you mean when you first initial or after a movement? R/ Nathan
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Well, I had more free time on my hands than I thought I would during the holiday, so I've begun developing an INDI driver. The layout is done; now I'm working through a few kinks. I hope to get it sorted out quickly enough to complete the documentation and submit it for approval. Thanks for your patience.
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Nial and I have been able to resolve his issue. I want to clean up the code and have him retest to ensure everything functions appropriately. Then, I can release an update. Have an excellent finish to your year. Happy New Year everyone!
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In case anyone is following this discussion. Nial has been gracious enough to provide many logs, and we uncovered one error, which has been resolved. Unfortunately, it has created a new issue for him, which we are still working to resolve. Thankfully, he has completed some verification testing, and I should have a new release in the not-so-distant future. Happy holidays to everyone!
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Hi Ryan, Attached is a copy of the fritzing schematic. I hope this helps. R/ Nathan
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Ben, I'm sorry for the misinterpretation. I didn't mean to literally put the table in the turnPanelTo() function, but make the calls to the table from that function. Arduino has two main parts: setup () and loop(). The variables you declare need to go before those, so you'll need to adjust the table accordingly. You'll also need to transfer his other functions and adapt the usage of the analogWrite. It won't be a simple matter of copying and pasting from his to mine; you'll have to make some edits....
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Hi Ben, Thank you for the compliments on my design. I'm assuming you designed yours exactly as his schematic shows, with the light on pin 10, and you changed my Arduino code to use that pin? It is possible to edit my design and incorporate his table. Set the maxBrightness = 255, and include his table in the turnPanelTo() function. A few more coding changes will also be required to ensure you report your values correctly to ASCOM, but that should get you pointed in the right direction. Also, remember,...
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Thanks for the additional logs. "In answer to your first question the light did turn on before it froze." OK, that's good. That supports the logs that the command was sent and received, but the confirmation # sent back to NINA was lost for some reason. I cannot reproduce the issue you're experiencing on my test bench, even with the 12V source disconnected, but I have a theory. I'll do some testing and get back to you. It may be a day or two. In the meantime, for giggles and fun, as Ryan's post mentioned....
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Hi Nial, Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Thanks for bringing up the issue you're experiencing and including the error log and screenshot. I'm glad you've been able to test against the DLC app and verify it works as expected, narrowing the issue down to doing something specifically with NINA. Let's get this issue addressed. I only know one other person who has the DLC setup with NINA. @Ryan did have a couple of problems with NINA and was able to resolve them. You can see his issue here:...
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Awesome Peter! I'm glad you got it working. Thank you for the kind words. It was my pleasure to be able to assist. I hope to see pictures of your build and future photos here or on one of the web forums.
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Damon, thank you also for the feedback. I'm not adverse to a driver for INDI. Unfortunately, I'm currently occupied with other priorities, preventing me from familiarizing myself with the information needed to complete this task. If someone else can take the lead in the development of the driver, I'm still open to assisting, providing input, and answering questions where possible.
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That would be fantastic! I have not had any involvement with INDI nor completed any research into it.
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As far as I know, no one uses this project with INDI drivers. I have not developed any, and no one has approached me. If you or anyone else puts something together, I'd happily offer it.
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Peter, Thanks for posting the pictures. Everything appears connected correctly, so it's odd that it isn't working for you. Please provide the model #s for the two transistors you're using so I can doublecheck the pinout to be more confident, though. I want to clarify a couple of things. When you say you "have power at the little box," is what looks like the audio jack on the left side of the image, is the little box you're referring to? Is that the inverter? What voltage are you getting, and at which...
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Peter, You are correct; I did mislabel the two transistors in the image. Great catch, thank you! I will have to update. The schematic, though, is correct and should be what it followed. If you've installed the transistors correctly, as shown in the schematic, which is correct, then one or both transistors may have been damaged or are faulty. Here's a video for how to check them to make sure they are both functioning correctly. https://youtu.be/93bO2nBrptM?feature=shared Let me know the results. R/...
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Peter, I'm glad you've gotten it partially resolved. The EL Panel will not work if connected directly to the board. You need the little box; it's an inverter and converts from DC to AC. If it still doesn't work after that, check the PNP and verify it is connected correctly. If that still doesn't work, I'd recommend changing the NPN and/or the PNP; one or both may have gone bad if it was initially wired incorrectly. I've done that myself a time or two. Let me know the results, and we'll go from t...
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Peter, I'm glad you've gotten it partially resolved. The EL Panel will not work if connected directly to the board. You need the little box; it and inverter and converts from DC to AC. If it still doesn't work after that, check the PNP and verify it is connected correctly. If that still doesn't work, I'd recommend changing the NPN and/or the PNP; one or both may have gone bad if it was initially wired incorrectly. I've done that myself a time or two. Let me know the results, and we'll go from th...
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Peter, I'm glad you've gotten it partially resolved. The EL Panel will not work if connected directly to the board. You need the little box; it converts from DC to AC. If it still doesn't work after that, check the PNP and verify it is connected correctly. If that still doesn't work, I'd recommend changing the NPN and/or the PNP; one or both may have gone bad if it was initially wired incorrectly. I've done that myself a time or two. Let me know the results, and we'll go from there.
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The first big diode is in the right direction. Looking at the two images and solving why there is no power going to the Arduino first, the circuit seems correct. What is the power supply you are using? 12V # Amps? Do you have a voltmeter? Unplug the USB before starting, and let's walk through the components. Check the voltage at the beginning before the first diode. Are you getting a reading? What is it? Keep the ground lead on the input ground; are you getting a voltage after the first diode? After...
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Hi, Peter; thanks for the additional information and the picture. You definitely have a power issue because, at minimum, without the USB connected, the Arduino should be getting power, and it would also explain why neither the EL panel doesn't light up nor the servo move. Could you provide a picture of the bottom of your circuit board so I can attempt to trace all of your connections? Also, what is the rating of your power supply? R/ Nathan
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Hi Peter, I'm sorry to hear you've hit a snag in your development. It's OK not to cut the USB cable if you can connect directly to your Arduino. The purpose of a larger USB cable was to maintain comparable sizing to other equipment. The instructions for cutting the cable and the pinout can be found on page 12 of the manual. Regarding your setback, unfortunately, you don't provide many details, so it's hard to offer advice at this time. When you say you "try to use the cover/panel via app nothing...
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Hi Andrew, Thank you for your question. It's possible to control LEDs instead of an EL Panel. My design has a maximum voltage output of 12V to the light source; you need to find LEDs that support this voltage or add some components to reduce it. R/ Nathan
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I'm glad you've got it working. You are very welcome! R/ Nathan
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Hi Lucian, Thank you for the kind words. I'm sorry you're running into some trouble. Thank you for supplying the error text and the screen capture. Based on another user, who was also getting the same error, I believe the issue was caused by the computer putting USB devices to sleep. In Device Manager, can you verify that you have unchecked the option "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"? It may need to be checked in multiple places. If that's not it, I believe you are losing...
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Both of your points are valid reasons for causing an issue. If it happened during your initial connection, the EEPROM would be the more likely culprit. Please keep me posted. Good luck and enjoy! R/ Nathan
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Hi Nial, Thank you for starting the conversation to see if anyone else has had this problem. You are the first with this issue, I'm aware of. Upon startup, the calibratorState is "off," provided the variable lightInstalled is set to TRUE. Otherwise, if lightInstalled is set to FALSE, the value for calibratorState becomes "not present." I don't know why you would be getting a NULL value. Please provide a log for further review. R/ Nathan
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OK. That makes more sense. I'd be more than happy to give credit and include a new folder that provides your PCB design along with the necessary 3D files for someone to develop another version. Let me know when you've completed everything and I'll work with you to get everything posted. R/ Nathan
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Michael, that looks good. The mounting holes don't look like they will align with current design; did you make changes to the box? Also what about for power? Do you finished pictures of the board in your setup?
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Michael, that looks good. The mounting holes don't look like they will align with current design; did you make changes to the box?
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Micheal, The log files you refer to are not log files, so to speak, but confirmation reports that show the developer's product operates within the ASCOM-defined parameters. The first shows successful operation if the user has a light panel, and the other is without. If you'd like to share the files, I'd happily post them after reviewing them; thank you for the offer. R/ Nathan
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Arnie, you are very welcome; it was my pleasure to assist. If you're building the light panel separately, you should have no issues with different power supplies. Have a fun, safe trip to NM. I look forward to seeing pictures of your setup and work from NM. R/ Nathan
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Hi m0k2001, Thank you for your kind words; I'm glad you enjoy the project. The Windows app connects to the ASCOM interface, which makes and receives the calls and commands to the Arduino. I'm sorry you're having trouble getting it to work with your Seeduino Xiao. I am unfamiliar with that product so I will be little help. Please let us know if you do get it working with the Seeduino. R/ Nathan
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Arnie, that is excellent news! I'm glad it was a simple fix. I'm sorry if it was not apparent initially to use a 180-degree servo. It is possible to use two separate power sources, a 6V for the Arduino and Servo and a 12V source for the EL Panel, but I recommend against it. Yes, you'll eliminate a few components, but then you'll also need to add a few others to ensure everything operates harmoniously and protects the components.
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Since you've had trouble getting the voltage to stay a consistent 6V, before you wire it up to the original circuit, let's ensure your voltage is correct first. I'd hate to see you fry a device. Run the basic tests to ensure it opens to the right positions without twitching; then, we'll diagnose your circuit. Let me know when you've got the new servo.
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For simplicity, yes, switching to a 180-degree servo would be much easier, but we can work with the 270. I leave the call in your hands. I recommend this one, https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Waterproof-Control/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=180+degree+servo&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-23, the working voltage is between 4.8 - 6.8V. The one you referenced looks OK but has a smaller working voltage space of 6 - 7.4V. Let me know what you decide, and we'll go from there. I hope you had fun...
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You definitely have a conundrum on your hands. Ok. Let's start with the last part first, the twitchy servos. Do you have the ground of the servo and Arduino attached to the ground of the power supply? If yes, and it's still twitching, let's take a further step back. You may have to add a couple more variables to adjust the pulse width of the servo. Can you hook up just the servo and Arduino like the picture attached and run the following code: #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; // create servo object...
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You definitely have a conundrum on your hands. Ok. Let's start with the last part first, the twitchy servos. Do you have the ground of the servo and Arduino attached to the ground of the power supply? If yes, and it's still twitching, let's take a further step back. You may have to add a couple more variables to adjust the pulse width of the servo. Can you hook up just the servo and Arduino like the picture attached and run the following code: #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; // create servo object...
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You definitely have a conundrum on your hands. Ok. Let's start with the last part first, the twitchy servos. Do you have the ground of the servo and Arduino attached to the ground of the power supply? If yes, and it's still twitching, let's take a further step back. You may have to add a couple more variables to adjust the pulse width of the servo. Can you hook up just the servo and Arduino like the picture attached and run the following code: #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; // create servo object...
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Hey Arnie, I put a setup together, and it tested as expected, with an output of 6V. However, after adjusting the resistor locations, I got a 10V output. So I believe you have the 1k and 3.6k resistors on the wrong pin of the LM1084IT-ADJ. I have attached a picture showing the correct pinout. Please double-check this. If this does not solve the 6V output, please attach some photos so I can review what you have. R/ Nathan
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Arnie, unfortunately, step #2 is still the same as step one; we need to get the voltage down to 6V. From what you've written, the resistors are in their respective locations, but you should be getting 6V, not a 10.5V output; this is very strange and what we need to solve. The second one you built, is the setup also the same and reading 10.5V? I'll work on putting together a test bench this weekend and see if I can duplicate the voltage you're getting to try to wrap my head around it. In the meantime,...
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Fantastic Ryan! You're very welcome. I'm glad you've got it up and running. Please post pictures of your setup when complete. I'd love to see people's results. R/ Nathan
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Arnie, that's good information and helps. Let's start by addressing the power going to the servo. You stated the voltage is 10.5; however, this should be 6V. This may be where our issue lies, some servos can handle higher power than the specs list for higher torque and speed, but it's also possible the circuit has built-in protection, and maybe that's causing the jerking. So let's start there, getting the positive voltage into the servo down to 6V. Check that you don't have the 3.6k and 1k resistors...
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Interesting. OK, so if the panel is still twitching, even with a dedicated power supply, my guess is it's the servo, but it could be something else. Doing a quick Google search, a common theme is the servo and Arduino need to be ground to the power supply. Did you follow the schematic and use the same parts? Can you check the voltage at the input power side of the servo and from the signal on pin 9?
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OK. Please let me know the results. R/ Nathan
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Hi Arnold, Thank you for taking the time to reach out to me with your issue, and thank you for the kind words. I am glad you found this project and can take advantage of it. To make sure I understand correctly. You're using the Pegasus Astro Powerbox, which you've connected to the DLC, allowing you to turn on and off power to the DLC. However, the issue is when power is continuously supplied to the DLC, whether the panel is open or closed, the servo repeatedly jogs roughly every two seconds. Is that...
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Hi Ryan, I found no discernible difference in brightness when doing single-step values. Therefore, I broke down the number of brightness steps into larger values. I understand you're using the 294MC Pro and need very low brightness, but I don't know how single-step values will be helpful. Could you help me understand? Using the larger steps are you unable to get to a low enough or high enough brightness level using the larger steps? R/ Nathan
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Hi Ryan, I am sorry I could not get back to you sooner and assist you with finding alternative parts. I'm glad you could get the parts I've used and continue with your build. R/ Nathan
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Hi Morten, Thank you for the compliment. I am unfamiliar with the workings of N.I.N.A., so I can't comment exactly on how the implementation would work. I would reach out to the developers to see if they could implement the ability to use two drivers in the equipment tab, one for a scope cover and the other for a light panel. The DLC driver cannot be written as a Switch; this would remove the ASCOM support for the cover. Since you mentioned using an Arduino for the light panel, I recommend the light...
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Hi Mauricio, Looking at the link you provided, it appears to meet the criteria and should work fine. Good luck with your project! R/ Nathan
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Hi Mauricio, Look at the link you provided, it appears to meet the criteria and should work fine. Good luck with your project! R/ Nathan
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Hi Mauricio, I apologize, there are a few more changes that are required. I have sent you a PM. Let me know and hopefully we can get you up and running. Thanks, Nathan
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You're very welcome. I hope you enjoy the project.
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Hi Julian, Any EL Panel should work. You are correct; the vital part is the inverter needs to be 12V input. R/ Nathan
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Excellent, I'm glad it was an easy fix for you. Good luck with the rest of your build. If you have any troubles with the variable speed, please let me know. R/ Nathan
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Oh and by the way, I would be very intrested in when you get around to using a stepper motor instead of a servo. I like steppers more thean servos. One day. It's something on my to-do list.
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Oh and by the way, I would be very intrested in when you get around to using a stepper motor instead of a servo. I like steppers more thean servos. One day. It's something on my to-do list.
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Hi Damon, Thank you for reaching out with your questions. The Zener diode may be a little warm, but it should not be hot to the touch; it sounds like there may be a problem. Regarding slowing the servo speed, this can be accomplished. You will need to download the VarSpeedServo library, replace #include <servo.h> with #include <varspeedservo.h> and Servo myservo; with VarSpeedServo myservo;. Afterward, you'll have to find the best value by updating the servoSpeed variable. I hope that helps; if you...
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Sorry to hear your existing servo isn't correct. "I guess using a 360deg servo I would be able to get the 270deg by entering something like 135 instead of 180." Unfortunately, with a 360 servo, it's not as simple as entering in the angle. With a 360, you will have to use sensors or switches to tell the system when to stop. "I like the idea about using the reed switches as an extra measure. Will see how I go." I used hall sensors instead of reed switches for better reliability. Good luck; let me know...
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Hi Andrew, Glad to hear you've got your project up and running, for the most part. I also tried initially using a 270 degree of motion servo to get the panel to lay flat but returned it because I found it wouldn't move the entire distance. So for my personal project, I ended up using a 360 servo and installed a couple of reed switches to detect the open and closed positions. I plan to redo this project one day using a stepper motor instead. To answer your questions. "Default Values 90 OpenPos and...
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Hi Andrew, Glad to hear you've got your project up and running, for the most part. I also tried initially using a 270 degree of motion servo to get the panel to lay flat but returned it because I found it wouldn't move the entire distance. So for my personal project, I ended up using a 360 servo and installed a couple of reed switches to detect the open and closed positions. I plan to redo this project one day using a stepper motor instead. To answer your questions. "Default Values 90 OpenPos and...
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No problem. Yes, I purchased my servo from eBay; it's a high torque metal gear servo. Like my design, it's over-engineered. I bought one that will provide more than enough torque to handle any movement. Here is a link to the one I purchased from eBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/231995533597 I hope that helps. R/ Nathan
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No problem. Yes, I purchased my servo from eBay; it's a high torque metal gear servo. Like my design, it's over-engineered, I bought one that will provide more than enough torque to handle any movement. Here is a link to the one I purchased from eBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/231995533597 I hope that helps. R/ Nathan
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No problem. Yes, I purchased my servo from eBay; it's a high torque metal gear servo. Like my design that's over-engineered, I bought one that will provide more than enough torque to handle any movement. Here is a link to the one I purchased from eBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/231995533597 I hope that helps. R/ Nathan
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Hi Yoan, I'm sorry, I don't believe I understand the question. Are you asking what library is used for the servo? If so, it's currently the default Servo library. If that is not what you're asking, please let me know. R/ Nathan
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Hi Florian. Your design looks great! "But each panel must be maneuvered individually, with min-max values independent for each. Is it possible to modify ascom driver and arduino firmware to allow that ?" I have a few questions. Why do the panels need to be moved independently and have different values? Can they not both open and close at the same time? Are you trying to open the panel further than 90 degrees? Thinking about your design and looking at the pictures, I believe you should be able to...
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Hi Andrew, Thank you for the kind words. I hope this project works great for you. I have not used or tested a BEC/ESC, so I can't personally speak to using one, but I would assume that, as long as it provides the correct voltage the servo requires, it shouldn't be a problem. To your second question regarding the Zener, it is used to regulate power to the Arduino. An Arduino Nano can support voltage from 7 - 12V, and even though the input circuit is for 12V, I use the Zener to drop the voltage down...
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Thanks for the response. This community amazes me. It's a 168 mm OD dew shield on a William Optics Zenithstar 126mm refractor. So far, I've set up the STL files to print per the instructions on the CalPanel github, so it should center o.k. I would have gone for a slightly larger panel, but the 5" jumps up to an 8" on the Ellumiglow site. There is also a frosted acrylic glass that evens out the light provided with the panel. Pretty cool. My concern is my newbiness when it comes to coding the Arduino....
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A larger panel would allow for the center to not be as vital. Unless you need to change the code that someone else has written, it's only a matter of uploading to Arduino and then applying power. I've added comments to each section of my code to explain each function and purpose.
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It would be very doable to use my design with a round panel instead of a rectangular or square; it would only require a redesign of the container that holds the panel. The biggest concern is verifying that the new version is centered on your scope. What size or kind of telescope are you using?
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I can confirm that I have v167 for Arduino Firmware & v1604 ASCOM driver I discovered...
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I am attempting to connect to FocusMax 3.8.0.20 and have been unable to do so. I...
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