Activity for LEO YU
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LEO YU posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
sorry i meant changing them physically via jumpers or dip switch on the expansion driver board
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i 100% agree on the step size overkill that's why I'm trying to get to the 1/2 step size that's supposed to be possible via the ms1 ms2 pin. but changing the ms1 ms2 pins the resume was very much not what the spec said they should be... if i can get from 1600 steps per rec to 400 steps as a 1/2 should be, my backlash would only be 1600. Sharpcap max out at 5000 steps for backlash compensation, so even 1/4 at 800 would have still been enough at 3200 steps.
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i 100% agree on the step size overkill that's why I'm trying to get to the 1/2 step size that's supposed to be possible via the ms1 ms2 pin. but changing the ms1 ms2 pins the resume was very much not what the spec said they should be... if i can get from 1600 steps per rec to 400 steps as a 1/2 should be, my backlash would only be 1600. Sharpcap max out at 5000 steps for backlash compensation, so even 1/4 at 800 would have still been enough at 3200 steps.
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Thank you! 1) I used BTT TMC2208 because I had them left over from my 3D printer projects. I can buy some 8825 i guess, using the solderless version because my solder skill is very bad and the driver board and nano shield keep things cleaner for me. 2) I updated the arduino nano to the TMC2225 firmware and it didn't make a difference. 3) The MS1 MS2 config does change the step mode but not in a way matching documentation neither in expected step count or even the expected microstep ratio, I tested...
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using tmc2208 stepper drive and drv8825 solderless firmware I'm expecting 400 steps per revolution in half step mode but I'm needing to 1600 steps to complete a revolution? i have tried all 4 combination of ms1 and ms2 for tmc2208 and this is the smallest.... the largest need 12800 steps so everything seem to be 4x more?
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The metal washer sandwhiching the cover and base, spray painted (badly) black to reduce internal reflection https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6676594
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so i went ahead and started this... 85% done... it's not pretty but it's functional just need to drill 2 more (hardened sprng steel, with carbide bits) washer to complete the right structural skeleton sandwich which hopefully will keep the things from flexing/bending the image train. the telescope end and cameras the are both further reinforced by zwo m54 male to t2 female 4mm zero optical length adapter and a blue football m48 make to t2 make 1mm optical length adapter. so any repeat screws on and...
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so i went ahead and started this... 85% done... it's not pretty but it's functional just need to drill 2 more (hardened sitting steel, with carbide bits) washer to complete the right structural skeleton sandwich which hopefully will keep the things from flexing/bending the image train. the telescope end and cameras the are both further reinforced by zwo m54 male to t2 female 4mm zero optical length adapter and a blue football m48 make to t2 make 1mm optical length adapter. so any repeat screws on...
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I really want a 7 position 2 inch EFW but the ZWO one is fairly pricey. I actually already have some extra 3d printer parts like pancake NEMA motor, TMC2209 or A4988 stepper driver, GT2 pulley and V wheels/bearings Goal is to create a 3d printed EFW that is rigid enough not to bend/flex the imaging train, leveraging common easy to find 3d printer parts To add the extra rigidity I plan on using 4x 90mm OD 65mm ID 1mm thick steel thrust bearing washer 2x each sandwhich the cover and base, in the middle...
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