The global PHP configuration page at Webmin > Others > PHP Configuration doesn't include an option for FPM mode, which is now my preferred mode. On Ubuntu 18.04 it should be /etc/php/7.2/fpm/php.ini.
It's quite easy to add it using the "Module config" cogwheel at the top left but I missed this at first and tried to use the "Manage" button instead, which doesn't save the path. I find this a bit counter-intuitive.
The reason I was trying to change it was because the maximum upload size of 2M seems way too restrictive these days, I would recommend increasing the default to 20M or more. I also increase the memory limit to 256M because WordPress needs that now.