From: David J M. <dm...@ci...> - 2006-04-27 00:43:33
|
This seems really stupid. I asked SmartHome if these would do 3-way circuits. I didn't say "virtual 3-way circuits." Doesn't work either and I am sure they are wired correctly. I give. What is an "Insteon Controller." A maxi-controller with an LED? The documentation is ridiculous. Were they trying to save paper? A definition of "Insteon Controller" (which is referred to 20 times) would have been nice. I am sure I don't need it and just as sure that their marketing department wants me to buy it. Does anyone else out there have these newer SwitchLincs (and does the virtual 3-way trick work?) Funny how virtual n-way circuits have worked with KeyPadLinc's and X10 for years, but somebody was not happy with that and had to layer a whole new mess on top of it. I think the PCS stuff does true 3-way circuits, but I had moved away from them for reasons I can't remember. And the status responses are still bogus (and I have reported it at least twice.) I guess fixing problems with existing products does not generate headlines, so they spend all of their time inventing new stuff (and new problems.) I hate Insteon already. |
From: <mis...@co...> - 2006-04-27 00:57:16
|
Insteon sounds cool. It's supposed to be compatible with X10. And it functions with confirmation and the ability to repeat / strengthen signal. Anyone know if, in a 99% x10 setup, I can use an insteon as a 10 device? Even better, can I use one of them to bolster my x10 signal? Thx rick Rick Steeves ri...@si... http://www.sinister.net "Live like you're dying" |
From: Jack E. <ja...@lo...> - 2006-04-27 01:09:59
|
mis...@co... wrote: > Insteon sounds cool. It's supposed to be compatible with X10. You can program them to respond to an X10 signal. > And it functions with confirmation and the ability to repeat / > strengthen signal. Yes, in Insteon mode. NOT as an X10 device... > Anyone know if, in a 99% x10 setup, I can use an insteon as a 10 device? Yes. > Even better, can I use one of them to bolster my x10 signal? Nope... > Thx Sure! > rick > > Rick Steeves > ri...@si... http://www.sinister.net > "Live like you're dying" |
From: N <ya...@ri...> - 2006-04-27 11:05:42
|
I've seen a few mentions of floor plans on here, I've tried it once with misterhouse and couldn't get anything better than an untidy looking html table. Is there a tutorial out there for something neater which uses the co-ordinates and room sizes that misterhouse already includes? Thanks, Nigel |
From: Neil C. <nc...@co...> - 2006-04-27 01:23:29
|
mis...@co... wrote: > > > Insteon sounds cool. It's supposed to be compatible with X10. And it > functions with confirmation and the ability to repeat / strengthen signal. > > Anyone know if, in a 99% x10 setup, I can use an insteon as a 10 device? I think so, I've used my Insteon devices as X10 devices (and I seem to recall the Insteon part still working though someone said it didn't). > Even better, can I use one of them to bolster my x10 signal? No, only boots the Insteon signals -- Linux Home Automation Neil Cherry nc...@li... http://www.linuxha.com/ Main site http://linuxha.blogspot.com/ My HA Blog http://home.comcast.net/~ncherry/ Backup site |
From: Jack E. <ja...@lo...> - 2006-04-27 01:33:27
|
David, Simmer down... This is easy! ;-) If you install an Insteon SwitchLinc or ICON in-wall dimmer switch at both ends of the 3-way, replacing whatever you had before... There will be the normal ground and neutral wires in each box... One of the boxes will have a wire that is the HOT, from the breaker panel. Usually Black... One of the boxes will have the wire that goes to the lamp fixture... Usually Black too. Then there will be a "runner" that goes between the two boxes, usually Red. What needs to happen is this: After you identify the wires, as described above... Each Insteon switch CAN control a load, but in a 3-way only one DOES... So on the switch in the box that leads to the lamp (MAIN) will have it's Red load wire connected to the light's wire. The switch in the other box (SECONDARY) will have it's Red load wire capped-off, and it will remain unused. The question IS does each switch's box have a live Black wire? One may not, and thus the reason for the "Runner"... You might need to USE the "runner" wire to bring a HOT lead to the other switch. Insteon switches need Hot, Neutral, and Ground to function. ------------- Once the switches are physically wired, and in place only ONE will operate the light at this moment. Now you need to LINK the two switches to each other. Cross linking is what you'll be doing... Very simple... Press and hold the MAIN switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little LED will start flashing (and the lights'll flash)... Now walk over to the SECONDARY switch and do the same... Don't let go till you see the light's flash once, no more than about 15 seconds oughta git 'er done... You have now linked the two switches, but only in ONE direction. You now have to repeat the process. Press and hold the SECONDARY switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little LED will start flashing but the light may not flash... Now walk back to the MAIN switch and do the same... The load may not flash... You need to make sure they go out of linking mode. Tap the switch to exit, if the little LED is still flashing... Now both switches will operate the load. And you could easily make the 3-way into an N-way, just program additional Secondary switches... Or the KeypadLink... ---------------- Any switch can be an Insteon controller... The KeypadLink can control a load, but the other buttons are for controlling other devices... or macros (scenes.) Note: When you go to control the N-Way circuit virtually (from a computer), you need only control the MAIN switch... Insteon works, and it is only getting better! I hope this helps... Sincerely, Jack :) >This seems really stupid. I asked SmartHome if these would do 3-way >circuits. I didn't say "virtual 3-way circuits." Doesn't work either and I >am sure they are wired correctly. I give. What is an "Insteon Controller." >A maxi-controller with an LED? The documentation is ridiculous. Were they >trying to save paper? A definition of "Insteon Controller" (which is >referred to 20 times) would have been nice. I am sure I don't need it and >just as sure that their marketing department wants me to buy it. Does >anyone else out there have these newer SwitchLincs (and does the virtual >3-way trick work?) > >Funny how virtual n-way circuits have worked with KeyPadLinc's and X10 for >years, but somebody was not happy with that and had to layer a whole new >mess on top of it. I think the PCS stuff does true 3-way circuits, but I >had moved away from them for reasons I can't remember. > >And the status responses are still bogus (and I have reported it at least >twice.) I guess fixing problems with existing products does not generate >headlines, so they spend all of their time inventing new stuff (and new >problems.) I hate Insteon already. > > |
From: David N. <dno...@ya...> - 2006-04-27 02:35:31
|
That is a very good explanation, Jack. It should go in the wiki. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Edin" <ja...@lo...> To: <mis...@li...> Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 6:32 PM Subject: Re: [mh] Insteon Switchlinc 3-way circuit > David, > > Simmer down... This is easy! > > ;-) > > If you install an Insteon SwitchLinc or ICON in-wall dimmer switch at both > ends of the 3-way, replacing whatever you had before... > > There will be the normal ground and neutral wires in each box... > > One of the boxes will have a wire that is the HOT, from the breaker panel. > Usually Black... > One of the boxes will have the wire that goes to the lamp fixture... > Usually Black too. > > Then there will be a "runner" that goes between the two boxes, usually > Red. > > What needs to happen is this: > > After you identify the wires, as described above... > > Each Insteon switch CAN control a load, but in a 3-way only one DOES... So > on the switch in the box that leads to the lamp (MAIN) will have it's Red > load wire connected to the light's wire. The switch in the other box > (SECONDARY) will have it's Red load wire capped-off, and it will remain > unused. > > The question IS does each switch's box have a live Black wire? One may > not, and thus the reason for the "Runner"... > > You might need to USE the "runner" wire to bring a HOT lead to the other > switch. Insteon switches need Hot, Neutral, and Ground to function. > > ------------- > > Once the switches are physically wired, and in place only ONE will operate > the light at this moment. > > Now you need to LINK the two switches to each other. Cross linking is what > you'll be doing... > > Very simple... > > Press and hold the MAIN switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little > LED will start flashing (and the lights'll flash)... > > Now walk over to the SECONDARY switch and do the same... Don't let go till > you see the light's flash once, no more than about 15 seconds oughta git > 'er done... > > You have now linked the two switches, but only in ONE direction. You now > have to repeat the process. > > Press and hold the SECONDARY switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The > little LED will start flashing but the light may not flash... > > Now walk back to the MAIN switch and do the same... The load may not > flash... > > You need to make sure they go out of linking mode. Tap the switch to exit, > if the little LED is still flashing... > > Now both switches will operate the load. > > And you could easily make the 3-way into an N-way, just program additional > Secondary switches... Or the KeypadLink... > > ---------------- > > Any switch can be an Insteon controller... > > The KeypadLink can control a load, but the other buttons are for > controlling other devices... or macros (scenes.) > > Note: > > When you go to control the N-Way circuit virtually (from a computer), you > need only control the MAIN switch... > > Insteon works, and it is only getting better! > > I hope this helps... > > Sincerely, > > Jack > :) > >>This seems really stupid. I asked SmartHome if these would do 3-way >>circuits. I didn't say "virtual 3-way circuits." Doesn't work either and >>I am sure they are wired correctly. I give. What is an "Insteon >>Controller." A maxi-controller with an LED? The documentation is >>ridiculous. Were they trying to save paper? A definition of "Insteon >>Controller" (which is referred to 20 times) would have been nice. I am >>sure I don't need it and just as sure that their marketing department >>wants me to buy it. Does anyone else out there have these newer >>SwitchLincs (and does the virtual 3-way trick work?) >> >>Funny how virtual n-way circuits have worked with KeyPadLinc's and X10 for >>years, but somebody was not happy with that and had to layer a whole new >>mess on top of it. I think the PCS stuff does true 3-way circuits, but I >>had moved away from them for reasons I can't remember. >> >>And the status responses are still bogus (and I have reported it at least >>twice.) I guess fixing problems with existing products does not generate >>headlines, so they spend all of their time inventing new stuff (and new >>problems.) I hate Insteon already. > > > ------------------------------------------------------- > Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? > Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job > easier > Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache Geronimo > http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 > ________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe from this list, go to: > http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 > > |
From: David J M. <dm...@ci...> - 2006-04-27 03:48:05
|
"Jack Edin" <ja...@lo...> wrote in message news:445...@lo...... > David, > > Simmer down... This is easy! It turns out it was, no thanks to the obtuse instructions. > > ;-) > > If you install an Insteon SwitchLinc or ICON in-wall dimmer switch at both > ends of the 3-way, replacing whatever you had before... > > There will be the normal ground and neutral wires in each box... > > One of the boxes will have a wire that is the HOT, from the breaker panel. > Usually Black... > One of the boxes will have the wire that goes to the lamp fixture... > Usually Black too. > > Then there will be a "runner" that goes between the two boxes, usually > Red. > > What needs to happen is this: > > After you identify the wires, as described above... > > Each Insteon switch CAN control a load, but in a 3-way only one DOES... So > on the switch in the box that leads to the lamp (MAIN) will have it's Red > load wire connected to the light's wire. The switch in the other box > (SECONDARY) will have it's Red load wire capped-off, and it will remain > unused. > > The question IS does each switch's box have a live Black wire? One may > not, and thus the reason for the "Runner"... > > You might need to USE the "runner" wire to bring a HOT lead to the other > switch. Insteon switches need Hot, Neutral, and Ground to function. > > ------------- > > Once the switches are physically wired, and in place only ONE will operate > the light at this moment. > > Now you need to LINK the two switches to each other. Cross linking is what > you'll be doing... > > Very simple... > > Press and hold the MAIN switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little > LED will start flashing (and the lights'll flash)... I figured it out. They don't default to A1 either. Apparently they got the HAIL/ACK stuff to work. For the record they work fine now. The LED's are cool. I am not using Insteon, but some of my newer wall switches are apparently Insteon controllers (as well as X10.) I just set the primary address for both (to the same address of course.) I could have sworn that they were trying to sell me a maxi-controller. They all try that. Well duh, the "controller" is the switch itself. |
From: David N. <dno...@ya...> - 2006-04-27 04:55:31
|
> I figured it out. They don't default to A1 either. Apparently they got > the HAIL/ACK stuff to work. Would you descibe briefly how the HAIL/ACK X10 commands work? I've never seen them documented anywhere. David |
From: David J M. <dm...@ci...> - 2006-04-27 21:25:17
|
I can try. I know little about them. HAIL is sent when a new module is plugged in. All other modules are supposed to send an ACK. So now the newly installed module knows which addresses are currently occupied. That is about it AFAIK. "David Norwood" <dno...@ya...> wrote in message news:002101c669b6$cc6f7a20$1501a8c0@neo... >> I figured it out. They don't default to A1 either. Apparently they got >> the HAIL/ACK stuff to work. > > Would you descibe briefly how the HAIL/ACK X10 commands work? I've never > seen them documented anywhere. > > David > > > > ------------------------------------------------------- > Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? > Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job > easier > Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache Geronimo > http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 > ________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe from this list, go to: > http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 > > |
From: David N. <dno...@ya...> - 2006-04-29 01:35:34
|
Ah, that makes sense. I read in the Insteon documentation that they have something similar in that protocol. Misterhouse could probably listen for these and automatically create an object (item) when it sees a new address. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "David J Mark" <dm...@ci...> To: <mis...@li...> Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [mh] Insteon Switchlinc 3-way circuit >I can try. I know little about them. > > HAIL is sent when a new module is plugged in. All other modules are > supposed to send an ACK. So now the newly installed module knows which > addresses are currently occupied. That is about it AFAIK. > > "David Norwood" <dno...@ya...> wrote in message > news:002101c669b6$cc6f7a20$1501a8c0@neo... >>> I figured it out. They don't default to A1 either. Apparently they got >>> the HAIL/ACK stuff to work. >> >> Would you descibe briefly how the HAIL/ACK X10 commands work? I've never >> seen them documented anywhere. >> >> David >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------- >> Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? >> Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job >> easier >> Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache >> Geronimo >> http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 >> ________________________________________________________ >> To unsubscribe from this list, go to: >> http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 >> >> > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------- > Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? > Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job > easier > Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache Geronimo > http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 > ________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe from this list, go to: > http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 > > |
From: David J M. <dm...@ci...> - 2006-04-27 04:14:51
|
Didn't have time to really read this before. There is a lot of info here that I don't really understand and I am not sure if it affected. "Jack Edin" <ja...@lo...> wrote in message news:445...@lo...... > David, > > Simmer down... This is easy! > > ;-) > > If you install an Insteon SwitchLinc or ICON in-wall dimmer switch at both > ends of the 3-way, replacing whatever you had before... > > There will be the normal ground and neutral wires in each box... > > One of the boxes will have a wire that is the HOT, from the breaker panel. > Usually Black... > One of the boxes will have the wire that goes to the lamp fixture... > Usually Black too. I had somebody do it and they said they wired it per the instructions for the virtual 3-way circuit. I guess he did it right as it works now. > > Then there will be a "runner" that goes between the two boxes, usually > Red. > I recall there was a link between them and I would have expected it to use that to communicate with the other switch (controller.) > What needs to happen is this: > > After you identify the wires, as described above... > > Each Insteon switch CAN control a load, but in a 3-way only one DOES... Right. And apparently the same model can be a master or slave. > So on the switch in the box that leads to the lamp (MAIN) will have it's > Red load wire connected to the light's wire. The switch in the other box > (SECONDARY) will have it's Red load wire capped-off, and it will remain > unused. Right. > > The question IS does each switch's box have a live Black wire? One may > not, and thus the reason for the "Runner"... One did not. > > You might need to USE the "runner" wire to bring a HOT lead to the other > switch. Insteon switches need Hot, Neutral, and Ground to function. I don't know what he did. > > ------------- > > Once the switches are physically wired, and in place only ONE will operate > the light at this moment. Right and it is not on A1 by default (which threw me.) > > Now you need to LINK the two switches to each other. Cross linking is what > you'll be doing... > > Very simple... > > Press and hold the MAIN switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little > LED will start flashing (and the lights'll flash)... Right. Sets to programming mode. Can also be done with a series of X10 commands. Not sure if it defaults to allow that or not. I think the old ones did. > > Now walk over to the SECONDARY switch and do the same... Don't let go till > you see the light's flash once, no more than about 15 seconds oughta git > 'er done... See, I didn't do this at all. I programmed them just like the old ones (one at a time.) Same address on both. Then it worked. > > You have now linked the two switches, but only in ONE direction. You now > have to repeat the process. > > Press and hold the SECONDARY switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The > little LED will start flashing but the light may not flash... > > Now walk back to the MAIN switch and do the same... The load may not > flash... This is where I am getting lost. Is this only needed if you want to use Insteon? I am just using X10. It seems to work no differently than creating a virtual 3-way with KeypadLinc's, SwitchLinc's, etc. > > You need to make sure they go out of linking mode. Tap the switch to exit, > if the little LED is still flashing... > > Now both switches will operate the load. > > And you could easily make the 3-way into an N-way, just program additional > Secondary switches... Or the KeypadLink... I suppose I could do it the same way I did these. (?) I don't have any 4-ways. At that point I use scenes. > > ---------------- > > Any switch can be an Insteon controller... > > The KeypadLink can control a load, but the other buttons are for > controlling other devices... or macros (scenes.) I have a bunch of them. They work well. The scene programming is easy on these. I think it is best to take full advantage of that if you run these switches. It cuts way down on the amount of work the PC controller has to do. mh triggers work the same, you just use set_receive instead of set. That is the solution for all out there trying to send three ON's in a row in a trigger (or setting groups with lots of modules that span different house codes.) > > Note: > > When you go to control the N-Way circuit virtually (from a computer), you > need only control the MAIN switch... I don't get this either. I control these just like any 2-way X10 switches. They share the same address. > > Insteon works, and it is only getting better! I can't completely vouch for it as I am not really using it. > > I hope this helps... Thanks a lot for all of the help! > > Sincerely, > > Jack > :) > >>This seems really stupid. I asked SmartHome if these would do 3-way >>circuits. I didn't say "virtual 3-way circuits." Doesn't work either and >>I am sure they are wired correctly. I give. What is an "Insteon >>Controller." A maxi-controller with an LED? The documentation is >>ridiculous. Were they trying to save paper? A definition of "Insteon >>Controller" (which is referred to 20 times) would have been nice. I am >>sure I don't need it and just as sure that their marketing department >>wants me to buy it. Does anyone else out there have these newer >>SwitchLincs (and does the virtual 3-way trick work?) >> >>Funny how virtual n-way circuits have worked with KeyPadLinc's and X10 for >>years, but somebody was not happy with that and had to layer a whole new >>mess on top of it. I think the PCS stuff does true 3-way circuits, but I >>had moved away from them for reasons I can't remember. >> >>And the status responses are still bogus (and I have reported it at least >>twice.) I guess fixing problems with existing products does not generate >>headlines, so they spend all of their time inventing new stuff (and new >>problems.) I hate Insteon already. > > > ------------------------------------------------------- > Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? > Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job > easier > Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache Geronimo > http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 > ________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe from this list, go to: > http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 > > |
From: MrT <tar...@ya...> - 2007-02-18 23:02:35
|
There are at least three different ways to create a three-way light circuit. At least two of those configurations will give you a headache if you try to install Switchlincs because they lack a Neutral (white) line and SwitchLincs need the Neutral line to function properly. Ideally, and as described in SmartHome's Switchlinc documentation, you want the mains (power from the electrical panel) to enter one switch, proceed to the next switch, and then onto the light fixture. Nice arrangement if you have it. My hallway light has the the mains entering the light fixture itself and then proceeds through the two switches. This configuration, although valid, supplies no viable neutral line to the two switches. There's a third configuration where the mains also enters the fixture and one switch is supplied with a neutral line. The only fix for my configuration, was to disconnect the mains from the light fixture and run a new mains to the first floor switch. The existing wiring was then "re-purposed" and allowed for the neutral line to become available to both switches. BTW, you may be faced with a simlar problem when attempting to install a Swichlinc in a simple two-way light circuit. If you remove the existing light switch and see only one cable, (containing Hot/Black, Neutral/White, and ground), you're in trouble. It means the mains enters the light fixture and then proceeds to the switch. The Switchlinc wants to see two cables in the switch box, one providing the mains and the other continuing on to the load (the light). It uses the neutral line from the mains cable. The solution is to disconnect the mains from the light fixture and supply a new mains line to the switch (i.e reverse the order of things: not power to the light fixture and then to the switch but power to the switch and then to the light fixture). Unfortunately, it is often impractical to fish the wires or undesirable to chop holes in walls just to install a Switchlinc dimmer. Then again, it depends on how badly you want to get that frickin light under MrHouse's control! :-) Jack Edin wrote: > > David, > > Simmer down... This is easy! > > ;-) > > If you install an Insteon SwitchLinc or ICON in-wall dimmer switch at > both ends of the 3-way, replacing whatever you had before... > > There will be the normal ground and neutral wires in each box... > > One of the boxes will have a wire that is the HOT, from the breaker > panel. Usually Black... > One of the boxes will have the wire that goes to the lamp fixture... > Usually Black too. > > Then there will be a "runner" that goes between the two boxes, usually > Red. > > What needs to happen is this: > > After you identify the wires, as described above... > > Each Insteon switch CAN control a load, but in a 3-way only one DOES... > So on the switch in the box that leads to the lamp (MAIN) will have it's > Red load wire connected to the light's wire. The switch in the other box > (SECONDARY) will have it's Red load wire capped-off, and it will remain > unused. > > The question IS does each switch's box have a live Black wire? One may > not, and thus the reason for the "Runner"... > > You might need to USE the "runner" wire to bring a HOT lead to the other > switch. Insteon switches need Hot, Neutral, and Ground to function. > > ------------- > > Once the switches are physically wired, and in place only ONE will > operate the light at this moment. > > Now you need to LINK the two switches to each other. Cross linking is > what you'll be doing... > > Very simple... > > Press and hold the MAIN switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The little > LED will start flashing (and the lights'll flash)... > > Now walk over to the SECONDARY switch and do the same... Don't let go > till you see the light's flash once, no more than about 15 seconds > oughta git 'er done... > > You have now linked the two switches, but only in ONE direction. You now > have to repeat the process. > > Press and hold the SECONDARY switch's ON... At least 10 seconds... The > little LED will start flashing but the light may not flash... > > Now walk back to the MAIN switch and do the same... The load may not > flash... > > You need to make sure they go out of linking mode. Tap the switch to > exit, if the little LED is still flashing... > > Now both switches will operate the load. > > And you could easily make the 3-way into an N-way, just program > additional Secondary switches... Or the KeypadLink... > > ---------------- > > Any switch can be an Insteon controller... > > The KeypadLink can control a load, but the other buttons are for > controlling other devices... or macros (scenes.) > > Note: > > When you go to control the N-Way circuit virtually (from a computer), > you need only control the MAIN switch... > > Insteon works, and it is only getting better! > > I hope this helps... > > Sincerely, > > Jack > :) > >>This seems really stupid. I asked SmartHome if these would do 3-way >>circuits. I didn't say "virtual 3-way circuits." Doesn't work either and I >>am sure they are wired correctly. I give. What is an "Insteon Controller." >>A maxi-controller with an LED? The documentation is ridiculous. Were they >>trying to save paper? A definition of "Insteon Controller" (which is >>referred to 20 times) would have been nice. I am sure I don't need it and >>just as sure that their marketing department wants me to buy it. Does >>anyone else out there have these newer SwitchLincs (and does the virtual >>3-way trick work?) >> >>Funny how virtual n-way circuits have worked with KeyPadLinc's and X10 for >>years, but somebody was not happy with that and had to layer a whole new >>mess on top of it. I think the PCS stuff does true 3-way circuits, but I >>had moved away from them for reasons I can't remember. >> >>And the status responses are still bogus (and I have reported it at least >>twice.) I guess fixing problems with existing products does not generate >>headlines, so they spend all of their time inventing new stuff (and new >>problems.) I hate Insteon already. >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------- > Using Tomcat but need to do more? Need to support web services, security? > Get stuff done quickly with pre-integrated technology to make your job > easier > Download IBM WebSphere Application Server v.1.0.1 based on Apache Geronimo > http://sel.as-us.falkag.net/sel?cmd=lnk&kid=120709&bid=263057&dat=121642 > ________________________________________________________ > To unsubscribe from this list, go to: > http://sourceforge.net/mail/?group_id=1365 > > > -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Insteon-Switchlinc-3-way-circuit-tf1515079.html#a9034877 Sent from the Misterhouse - User mailing list archive at Nabble.com. |