I read this FAQ today about this LCD display (http://store.earthlcd.com/FAQs-Panasonic-EDMGRB8KJF?sc=7&category=89) (It is one of those obvious things that I was afraid of missing and that's what eventually happened). The 3rd faq clearly states that this display is not good for video applications.
So if you are reading this thread with some potential video applications in mind (like mine), then choose other options.
I guess my last message didn't get posted because of the size, so resending with the URL of the photo ( http://picasaweb.google.com/jayeshsalvi/Gumstix):
Here is the picture of my setup. At the top there is the molex ribbon connector and at the bottom there is audiostix2. The connectors from ribbon are far from ideal, but I have carefully checked that there isn't any short between any two of them.
The white hanging wire is supposed to go to PWM0, I was planning to connect it to Vcc/GND to manually turn on/off the display.
So far the display isn't working for me. I hooked up the power adapter and gave its output to the inverter and so on. But I didn't see any activity. I hadn't put together the audiostix and gumstix so far, don't know if the LCD is supposed to show at least a flickr without the driving signals.
I have been busy with the software part of the project, hence this is on the back-burner. On the separate thread I heard someone got this working using some development kit. It might be worth looking at.
Let me know if any of you gets this working before I do.
Thanks for your interest.On 6/18/07, Jayesh Salvi < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:Hi Robert,
I will upload the photos today evening when I go home. As Dave said, it's difficult to solder wires to wires. I have soldered them, but discarded that because it was prone to short-circuit between adjacent wires. The digikey part you have mentioned looks like a suitable part to help you solder.
I fortunately got a small PCB board that has 34 holes on one end and 34 holes on the other end and each of the holes are connected by conducting paths on the PCB. I don't know the original purpose of this board, but it suited my needs. I soldered the 20 pins from my ribbon cable to 20 holes on one side of this board and then connected corresponding holes on the other side with the audiostix output. (the photo will make it more clear)
JayeshOn 6/17/07, orangerobot < email@example.com> wrote:
Do you think you could post some of your pictures or some hints on how to
accomplish the soldering? I spent a few hours this weekend trying to connect
wires to the Molex FFC connector with no success. I also tried using a
0.5mm Schmartboard that I spotted at Fry's. Unfortunately the pins on the
connector don't seem to sit properly in the grooves on the Schmartboard and
I can't get the solder to connect.
Despite all that, I did find a new part on Digikey that seems like it might
be easier for me to work with:
Jayesh Salvi wrote:
> As planned, I soldered everything together. All the parts mentioned in
> thread are all what I needed. I haven't yet powered the setup yet. I just
> found that the 12VDC o/p power adapter I got is giving out 16V. The rating
> of the inverter says max 14.4V. I will see if I get time tomorrow and
> to buy a ~9VDC power adapter.
> I am not sure if you (fabio/orangerobot) are waiting for me try out things
> when would you be convinced to buy this LCD setup. I am sure someone else
> has got it working, so I am pretty confident I will get it too. It's just
> that due to time constraints it will take some time for me. All the parts
> discussed so far should give a good idea of what one needs to put together
> everything. For further reference, I will post the photos of my soldering
> adventure so you get an idea. It is surely difficult to solder on such
> connectors. I tried 3 different ways of soldering so that it won't be too
> messy and prone to short circuits. That took most of my weekend. But
> eventually I have end-to-end connection from audiostix to LCD board.
> I will update more tommorrow.
> On 5/31/07, Jayesh Salvi < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>> I have received all the parts so far. The 5-pin connector showed up
>> yesterday and it fits perfect. I am going to buy a power adapter that
>> give around 12V DC output. The data sheet of CXA 0512 inverter mentions
>> 0.5A as its max input current. I am getting higher current ratings for
>> DC power adapters. I am gonna look little more at the HSC store and just
>> gonna give a shot to whatever fits closest.
>> Yeah the soldering is big task. My friend said he might get some wires
>> me. He also said the wires inside a CAT5 cable (the ethernet cable) will
>> also be good for such tiny connectors.
>> I am also very eager to get this working. The pieces are just sitting
>> there begging to get hooked up.
>> Hope to try it over the weekend for sure.
>> Stay tuned!
>> On 5/31/07, orangerobot < email@example.com> wrote:
>> > Jayesh,
>> > Have you made any more progress on hooking up the LCD? I've been
>> > following
>> > along and have order some of the parts mentioned here. I've got several
>> > of
>> > the components hooked together but I'm still not certain how to go
>> > soldering the tiny wires on the jumper cable from the LCD to my gumstix
>> > breakout board or how to build the circuit to supply power to the LCD
>> > interver.
>> > robert
>> > Jayesh Salvi wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hey Marc,
>> > >
>> > > On second thoughts, is it advisable to directly solder the wires
>> > coming
>> > > from
>> > > power adapter to the pins C1.1 and C1.2 of the inverter? Or is it too
>> > > risky?
>> > >
>> > > Thanks,
>> > > Jayesh
>> > >
>> > > On 5/17/07, Marc Humphreys < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> Jayesh,
>> > >>
>> > >> I owe you a beer. Its the 5 pin version you need not the 7-pin. Part
>> > >> Number is 538-51021-0500. It is the receptacle that you want along
>> > with
>> > >> the
>> > >> pins.
>> > >> I have both the 7 and 5 pin versions and I read the wrong part
>> > >> from
>> > >> the wrong pkg. FYI the 7-pin version is the same connector used on
>> > the
>> > >> ezLCD-002.
>> > >>
>> > >> Maybe you can call Mouser and make the change before they ship. I've
>> > done
>> > >> that before without much difficulty.
>> > >>
>> > >> Marc
>> > >
>> > >
>> > --
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