Arduino ASCOM Focuser Pro DIY Activity
Arduino Focuser, fully ASCOM complaint
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brownrb
Activity for Arduino ASCOM Focuser Pro DIY
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Arduino ASCOM Focuser Pro DIY released /Documentation/Comms Protocol v133.txt
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brownrb posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
What is the name of the firmware file you are using Application version is 1.1.1.8. What is that?
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Dave Jones posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Temperature probe works in the test app, but when using the application it does not work, just holds at 20c. Application version is 1.1.1.8.
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Hi Alex Congrats. That is really great. For mounting ideas on SCT - please see this zip file https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/MOUNTING%20BRACKETS%20AND%20IDEAS/User%20Builds%20and%20Bracket%20Examples.zip/download It has numerous examples from users for different types of telescopes. File is 60MB If you decide to replace the focus knon with a gear, and you have a 3d printer, gears for celestron scts is found here, both for the motor and for the focus shaft https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/3D%20Printed%20Parts/Gears/...
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Alex Arjomand posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Thanks Robert! Grabbed a 328 nano, wired up the board, and everything works nicely! Now to figure out how to connect to the C8. Seems tricky as the focuser shaft is 12.8mm, not sure how to find a shaft connector exactly that size. Really fun project :)
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Hi Alex Sorry to inform but 168 will not work (been there done that). The code size will not fit into the space on the 168p, you will need an 328 regards Robert
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Hi folks, I found this project and it seems too fun to pass up. I'm embarking on a build for my C8! I have a few Arduino Nanos with Atmega168p chipset (not the current atmega328 chipset). I think the primary difference is amount of EEPROM. Will this work or should I buy a new one? Thanks! Alex
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Rofear posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
I like that motor, the size it has is ideal. I have a skywatcher 200/1000 on an azeq6. If nothing happens, the fuse will arrive tomorrow and I will be able to start the tests. In the focuser I only have the Canon for now, for another year I will not change to ASI b/w and the wheel. Thank you very much for your time, I will continue bothering you with my progress and doubts
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I am sure what is being asked? The 28byj-49 12v motor has more torque that the 5V version, but it will run hot, If you have to have coil power On to reduce slippage of the focuser, then you can use the stepper motor to barbeque food - the stepper motor will get very hot. I dont know what telescope you have or the imaging train (filter wheel, camera etc) The higher the weight of the imaging train the more torque you need. the 28byj-28 12v is okay for visual use, but can fail to move a heavier imaging...
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could the 28byv-48 12v motor be used with this mount?
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Right now at home I have 16v 220uf and 25v 100uf thanks for the videos
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ahora mismo disponible en casa tengo 25v 100uf y 16v 220uf gracias por los videos
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Hi It is possible to use a lower voltage capcitor, 16v, and evem go down to 220uf, The purpose of c3 is to prevent a reboot of the controller when an application or ascom driver connects. It can take a few seconds following a reboot for the controller to respond to requests, which some applications will time out. I wrote the ascom driver so there should be no issue if you want to leave the c3 capcitor off. Regards Robert A link to the drv8825 motor stuff https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1e...
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Hi It is possible to use a lower voltage capcitor, 16v, and evem go down to 220uf, The purpose of c3 is to prevent a reboot of the controller when an application or ascom driver connects. It can take a few seconds following a reboot for the controller to respond to requests, which some applications will time out. I wrote the ascom driver so there should be no issue if you want to leave the c3 capcitor off. Regards Robert
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first of all thank you for your help don't worry, the photo was just to illustrate, everything is already on the zocalo. I have other questions and the 470uF 35v capacitor is too big to be able to integrate it on the board, what solution did you give? thank you very much
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Hi Roberto In the folder above https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/Gerber%20Files/ you will find the parts list spreadsheet It is arranged as a series of tabs (at the bottom) so select the one applicable to the gerber you downloaded. which i think was DRV8825_M-MT-F-BT-12_pcb.jpg Now I hope that you put header rises in for the nano and drv8825 chips? If not, I hope you have not soldered them in yet? Note that r10 and D3 are meant to be soldered underneath the nano chip,...
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hi https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/Gerber%20Files/DRV8825/
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Hi Roberto I have looked in the files directory here, and can only find rev11 pcb. The picture indicates it is rev12, which I cannot find. Do you have a link where you got the rev12 gerber file from? Regards Robert
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Hi how are you? I am writing to you why I am putting together the rev12 of the PCB. The issue is that components are missing in the parts xls. Let's see if any of you can help me. Thanks a lot.
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David S Gamble modified a comment on discussion General Discussion
I have built a focuser using a "Seeeduino Nano" USB3. It is attached to my SVBoney 106 using a toothed belt. The 28BYJ-48 has a 6 to 1 reduction buit in and the belt drive gives an additional reduction of 2.87. This equates to approximately 0.1 degrees per step. I initially hoped that the belt friction on the knurled helical focus would be sufficient but in the end I glued a strip of toothed belt onto the knob. I used a scrap of Vero board for the circuit , The wiring is very simple, 4 control wires...
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I have built a focuser using a "Seeeduino Nano" USB3. It is attacher to my SVBoney 106 using a toothed belt. The 28BYJ-48 has a 6 to 1 reduction buit in and the belt drive gives an additional reduction of 2.87. This equates to approximately 0.1 degrees per step. I initially hoped that the belt friction on the knurled helical focus would be sufficient but in the end I glued a strip of toothed belt onto the knob. It works well. The stepper has plenty of torque and for less than $5 is easily relaced...
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I have built a focuser using a "Seeeduino Nano" USB3. It is attacher to my SVBoney 106 using a toothed belt. The 28BYJ-48 has a 6 to 1 reduction buit in and the belt drive gives an additional reduction of 2.87. This equates to approximately 0.1 degrees per step. I initially hoped that the belt friction on the knurled helical focus would be sufficient but in the end I glued a strip of toothed belt onto the knob. It works well. The stepper has plenty of torque and for less than $5 is easily relaced...
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You should be able to use the ULN2003 driver and a 28BYJ-48 stepper motor. Some Nano builds use a USB-C connection which provides plenty of power. This would be an extremely low cost build. I plan to give it a go! Cheers
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Glenn Ashmore posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Next time the DRV8825HW203 boards are updated it would be helpful to make the spacing and holes for the 1N5408 polarity protection diode bigger. There is no smaller substitute for a 3a diode that I can find and the 1N5408 requires filing down the leads to fit in the holes. (Also applies to the myFilterwheel board.) Other than that this was a great little project.
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Hi The main pdf does outline the TNC2209/TMC2225 design and boards etc. The firmware zip file does have a folder that contains the code to make it go. The folders in the zip file are myFP2_TMC2209SG-312 myFP2_TMC2225_312 In terms of complexity, there is easy - uln2003, L298N, L293D, L9110S, harder - drv8825, A4998, EASYDRIVER, RAPS128, ST6128 etc where current needs to be set correctly then hardest - tmcxxxx The configuration and setup of the tmc22xxxx is more difficult when compared to other designs....
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Hi The main pdf does outline the TNC2208/TMC2225 design and boards etc. The firmware zip file does have a folder that contains the code to make it go. The folders in the zip file are myFP2_TMC2209SG-312 myFP2_TMC2225_312 In terms of complexity, there is easy - uln2003, L298N, L293D, L9110S, harder - drv8825, A4998, EASYDRIVER, RAPS128, ST6128 etc where current needs to be set correctly then hardest - tmcxxxx The configuration and setup of the tmc22xxxx is more difficult when compared to other designs....
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Hi The main pdf does outline the TNC2208/TMC2225 design and boards etc. The firmware zip file does have a folder that contains the code to make it go. The folders in the zip file are myFP2_TMC2209SG-312 myFP2_TMC2225_312 In terms of complexity, there is easy - uln2003, L298N, L293D, L9110S, harder - drv8825, A4998, EASYDRIVER, RAPS128, ST6128 etc where current needs to be set correctly then hardest - tmcxxxx The configuration and setup of the tmc22xxxx is more difficult when compared to other designs....
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Hi The main pdf does outline the TNC2208/TMC2225 design and boards etc. The firmware zip file does have a folder that contains the code to make it go. The folders in the zip file are myFP2_TMC2209SG-312 myFP2_TMC2225_312 In terms of complexity, there is easy - uln2003, L298N, L293D, L9110S, harder - drv8825, A4998, EASYDRIVER, RAPS128, ST6128 etc where current needs to be set correctly then hardest - tmcxxxx The configuration and setup of the tmc22xxxx is more difficult when compared to other designs....
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Samuel Tumlad modified a comment on discussion General Discussion
Hello Robert, thanks for the comment. Very new to the whole thing (and DIY electronics really). Another question does MFP support the TMC2225/2209? I found documentation in MFP2 but I haven't seen one in MFP even though it says on the homepage TMC2225/2209 are supported. I'd like to build one from stripboar/perfboard. Is there documentation for this that I can follow? Clear skies, Samuel
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Hello Robert, thanks for the comment. Very new to the whole thing (and DIY electronics really). Another question does MFP support the TMC2225/2209? I found documentation in MFP2 but I haven't seen one in MFP even though it says on the homepage TMC2225/2209 are supported. I'd like to build one from stripboar/perfboard. Is there documentation for this that I can follow?
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Hi Samuel Sorry, there is no design here that runs off 5V USB. The issue is the current needed to power the controller and the motor, and USB connections cannot provide enough current for most applications. I know some haved running the ULN2003 with 28BYJ-46 5V motor running off 5V USB, and sometimes it works. The idea of running the focuser off 12v is pretty simple really - increased torque etc. If you are already supplying power to a camera or filterwheel etc, just use a simple Y splitter cable...
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Hello, is there a build of MFP2 that is powered directly via USB? I'm trying to build a focuser for my camer lens. I would like it to have as few wires/power bricks connected to mains as possible (added that a Pegasus Powerbox is out of the budget) thus the requirement. I found this from Cloudy Nights but it was way back in 2014 and instead of a Nano it used a Teensy (https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/466453-super-compact-electronic-focuser/). I'd be very happy if someone can point me to the right...
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Brad posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Just curious. I thought maybe due to the performance characteristics of a Teensy over a Nano, it might be worth trying out.
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Bojan Stajcar posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Robert, thank you for the tips. I think I found and inserted all relevant subroutines into ULN2003 code, it compiles OK but some things are still missing before I try to upload and test. Anyway, I am not in a hurry with this since I already have what I needed (focus control via USB), more important now are mechanicals for my C11. Thanks again, Bojan
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There are actually TWO (correction: 3) myFocuserPro projects myFocuserPro uses 1.xxxx in all names for firmware and applications, https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/ myFocuserPro2 uses 2.xxxx in all names for firmware and applications https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/ the PCB design/hardware supports either or. But you cannot mix 1.xxx firmware or apps with something that was programmed with v2.xxx and vsvs Differences are here https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/Documentation/Comparison%20v1%20and%20v2%20myFocuserPro.pdf/download...
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There are actually TWO myFocuserPro projects myFocuserPro uses 1.xxxx in all names for firmware and applications, https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/ myFocuserPro2 uses 2.xxxx in all names for firmware and applications https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/ the PCB design/hardware supports either or. But you cannot mix 1.xxx firmware or apps with something that was programmed with v2.xxx and vsvs Differences are here https://sourceforge.net/projects/...
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OK, all sorted... I was using wrong version of software. Actually, Souceforge is quite confusing sometimes, I thought I was downloading the right files, but that was not the case. I had to specifically search for ver. 2 to find it. I hope I won't bother you again with this. Bojan
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I tried previous version (myFocuserProL) and it connects, but I still I have exception error when trying to Set parameters. What is wrong here? See the end of this message for details on invoking just-in-time (JIT) debugging instead of this dialog box. ** Exception Text ** System.FormatException: Input string was not in a correct format. at System.Number.StringToNumber(String str, NumberStyles options, NumberBuffer& number, NumberFormatInfo info, Boolean parseDecimal) at System.Number.ParseInt32(String...
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I tried previous version (myFocuserProL) and it works.
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Wrong Baud rate? W' app default rate is 9600. So I changed that to 57600 Now there is no Exception error, buy it's still not connected (because it requires 9600).... so when I click anything to change parameters, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected" and all soft buttons are grayed. Do I have to have 470uF cap on Reset connected, could this be the cause of my problem?
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate? . W' app default rate is 9600. So I changed that to 57600 Now there is no Exception error, buy it's still not connected (because it requires 9600).... so when I click anything to change parameters, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected" and all soft buttons are grayed. Do I have to have 470uF cap on Reset connected, could this be the cause of my problem?
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate? . W' app default rate is 9600. So I changed that to 57600 Now there is no Exception error, buy it seems is still not connected (for example, when I click Motor Settings or anything to change parameters, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected". Do I have to have 470uF cap on Reset connected, could this be the cause of my problem?
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate? . W' app default rate is 9600. So I changed that to 57600 Now there is no Exception error, buy it seems is still not connected (for example, when I click Motor Settings or anything to change parameters, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected".
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate. For some rason W' app defauld rate is 9600. My apologies.... However, it seems is still not connected (for example, when I click Motor Settingd > Full-Half, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected"
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate. My apologies.... However, it seems is still not connected (for example, when I click Motor Settingd > Full-Half, in Status Messages window there is a message "Serial port is not connected"
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Sorry, problem sorted - wrong Baud rate. My apologies....
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Robert, After successful compilation and f/w upload, I tried to power-up and focuser itself works with buttons, motor is moving, then stops (when limit is reached.. so everythin looks normal). Then I tried I tried to connect it to myFocuserPro windows application (v.1.04..2). It tries to connect (com13, 9600) but fails and then I have Unhandled exception error, see below. What I am doing wrong? Thanks again for your help and best regards, Bojan ** Exception Text ** System.ArgumentOutOfRangeException:...
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Download this zip file Start Arduino IDE On menu bar, Sketch Include Library Add .Zip Library navigate to the downloaded zip file, select the zip file and click Open
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How did you do it? I have the same error.
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Ettore Guido Basiglio Ribaudo posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
I resolved.
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Good morning i try compiled file arduino "Focuserv176_ULN2003.ino" but i have a error: Focuserv176_ULN2003:98:10: fatal error: myQueue.h: No such file or directory #include <myqueue.h> // By Steven de Salas ^~~~~~~~~~~ compilation terminated. exit status 1 myQueue.h: No such file or directory</myqueue.h> is possible to resolved? Thanks. Ettore
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Hi Luca i have edited your post to remove the code you posted. The code you posted is not part of this project and belongs to another, and I do not want users to think that code belongs here, which is does not. In response to your question, The Arduino Every is not supported and there are no plans to port the existing firmware to that platform. To use the existing firmware requires an Nano or Uno. regards Robert
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Luca posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Hi to everyone! I decided to build myself the focuser after reading a guide... but I bought the nano every... Unfortunately this firmware does not work on it, I read that this new nano model manages port in a different way from the "old nano". Can you suggest me where to find a working firmware? Or better if I buy an arduino uno? Thanks! // Moonlite-compatible stepper controller // Written by George Carlson June 2014. // This version uses the Tiny 2.0 a uController based on the Atmel ATMEGA32U4....
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If the board is not powering the motors even when the power jumper is in the correct place and being powered by an external 9v power then the must be an issue with the motor shield. To power the shield using external power, you MUST use a voltage of around 9V. if trying to power by 5V external power and also having usb cable connected this will not work - VIn - The voltage coming from the external supply has to be at least 5V + 1 .5V in order to work - that means at least 7V being applied to the...
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I doubt this is a problem with the firmware. The firmware does not care where the power comes from. BUT The board does. I do not know what board you are using. But there are many PDF's out there and I would strongly recommend getting one for your board if you have not already done so. I post here a PDF (produced by a manufacturer). Relevant sections are Can I use power from the Arduino? Sharing power with the Arduino works for many smaller motors. With the jumper installed, your motors will get power...
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Don McDonald posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
The motor wires are correct, the motor runs fine if the Arduino is powered through the USB plug. I am curious to know why the Arduino will not power the motor for the Test 4 sketch if the external power plug on the Arduino board is used instead of the USB plug. I assumed the Arduino would make use of the 12v if I plugged the power supply into the power plug on the Arduino board itself. You say the motor shield has to be powered with the 12v. I will try that. I will make sure that the power jumper...
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You power the board from the 12V input jack on the motorshield You must have the jumper in place. The jumper takes the 12V from the input jack and applies it to the stepper motor. You have all the 5 stepper wires connected? How? Which wire to which
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When using the jumper in place, you need to power from external 12V to the motor sheild. The jumper takes the external 12V input and uses that to power the L298 driver chip. So Jumper = ON 12V IN = ON
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Yes the power jumper on the motor shield is enabled, as in the photo you sent. Is there anything that has to be done to the Arduino board itself? I find it strange that the motor shield has power, as shown by the led light being on, but won't turn the motor on. Should I try disabling the power jumper and applying the external DC to the motor shield plug?
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Did you enable the power jumper? This is used when you power from external DC - it lets the VIN power the motor
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When I first put together the Arduino Uno and L293D motor shield I downloaded the Test 4 file to the Arduino to see if the motor(28BYJ-48) would turn. It did it's half turn left and half turn right as expected. This was using the USB plug to the laptop only. When I disconnected the USB cable and plugged in 9v to the external plug of the Arduino board the led on the motor shield came on but the motor did not turn. I found it strange that the motor shield obviously had power but the motor was not turning....
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Yes works great now. Thanks
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The temp probe requires a 4.7K resistor 1/4 watt is fine, between the SIG and VCC lines in order to work. Did you forget the resistor?
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The temp probe requires a 4.7K resistor 1/4 ewatt is fine, between the SIG and VCC lines in order to work. Did you forget the resistor?
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Hello to the Forum. I have had this focuser project in a drawer to use with a remote telescope setup for several years. With time on my hands due to Covid I decided to proceed with the project. I am using an L293D motor sheild on an Arduino Uno and a 28BYJ-48 motor. I programed it in the Arduino IDE with the Focuserv168_L293D_MT firmware and went through the setup in the Windows interface. It all works beautifully. However while the Windows program recognizes the temperature probe, and will return...
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Dave Wilkes posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
oops wrong thread
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maybe a silly question but where is the best place to put the temp sensors on a newt i am using 2 heaters one on the guide scope and one on the bottom of the main ota should I be measuring the temp close to the heater tape?
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David Swinnard posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
I totally understand, I am in exactly the same position. I certainly appreciate the work you've done on this and the dew controller. Thanks for your prompt replies and all the best of the season to you Dave (from the wet coast of Vanvouver Island where winter means project time, as the clear periods never seem to happen at night...)
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I am retired now and living on a pension which means I am not able to go out and purchase things like I used to - hence support for the cheapest driver chips I could afford.
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Hi Robert, Thanks for the reply and discussion regarding the stepper current. I will be checking the data sheet for mine. Is there a brief reason why the TMC2208 won’t work? I replaced my original 8825 driver with only a few pin wiring changes. I used it in the replacement mode with no programming. Dave On Dec 15, 2020, at 6:51 PM, brownrb brownrb@users.sourceforge.net wrote: TMC-2208 - No NEMA 17 0.9 - depends on the current rating per coil - well this applies to all stepper motors - the current...
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TMC-2208 - No NEMA 17 0.9 - depends on the current rating per coil - well this applies to all stepper motors - the current rating per coil should be < 500mA - why? Well there comes a time when stepping that BOTH coils are on at the same time - meaning current total = 2x and most of these driver chips will overheat and blow up if you try to go above about 1.5A total If its a high current stepper motor you need to go to the closed loop option.
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is it possible to use the TMC-2208 driver? I have some left over from my barn door tracker. Also a NEMA 17 motor of 0.9 deg/step (400 steps/rev). Reusing these would be great Cheers , Dave
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Wayne Brady posted a comment on discussion General Discussion
Im running off a 13.8v bench supply in the observatory but knocking it back to 12v with the attached image as the previous set up, learnt the hard way last time and smoked the board :) i dont have any capacitors hence the solderless set up but no worries Robert, i can still work around the focusing without the remote, i dont want to waste more of your time on this, you have been more than enough help, if i purchase another in future i can always refer back to this to set up printin statements have...
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Well that looks the same What are you powering the board with? AC Power adapter? I suspect that there could be a little noise on the voltage rail? Or the unit is a bit faulty I see the codes there but it is not consistent, I mean the test program appears to work right? some codes are displayed. Remove those serial.println() statements Serial.println("IR -"); Serial.println("IR +"); If you have a spare biplor capactor, put it across 5V and ground - the +ve lead to 5V and the -ve lead to GND. It should...
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Are these any good ?
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None of that looks even close to what it should be. Can you take a picture of the controller and its sensor? Did it come with a little pcb that the sensor attaches to?
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Morning Robert, ive included the txt for the remote presses, ive done 15 presses of "-" the same for "+" then a set alternating as you mentioned above, as for not working the motor does not move, also no indication in the status messages of the windows app although not sure if it would or not? i have inserted the serial.println statements and reprogrammed but nothing at all showing in serial monitor, as im not receiving anything at all i ran the windows app to see if it would fail to at least tell...
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Hi Wayne The code looks fine. What are the random numbers that pop up? When you run the irremote test program that displays the codes in the serial window - you can select all that and copy paste into a text file and post it to me? All you need to do when running the test is press - for one press, wait a couple of seconds then press + and wait then repeat. When you say it does not work - you mean the motor does not move? You can also try this mod inserting serial.println statements. Reprogram the...
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Thanks Robert, i tried again this morning and noticed a few random numbers coming up on the remote test, if it isn't me thats totally knackered it up maybe a dodgy remote kit?
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please send me the .ino file to have a look
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I have ran the test and receive exactly as below... Receive code=-260652741 for - Receive code=-1547112997 for + so if i change the case number 16769055 to 260652741 as below, uncomment INFRARED at Definable features and update the controller? case 260652741: // '-' IN -50 FAST adjpos = -50; motorSpeed = 2; updatemotorSpeedDelay(); break; Well i know im missing something for sure as it doesn't work for me :)
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Use the attached test program for the IR remote - it outputs to the serial port and has the values in decimal. You press the key and the code is displayed in the arduino serial monitor In general for the recommended IR Remote the + and the - keys have values of #define KEY_MINUS 16769055 // - #define KEY_PLUS 16754775 // + The place to edit what you want is in loop() specifically switch ( lastcode ) { case 16753245: // CH- IN -1 SLOW adjpos = -1; motorSpeed = 0; updatemotorSpeedDelay(); break; case...
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I think im on the last leg now Robert, all checks out, stepper is doing what its supposed to do, just a question on the ir remote, i have the button codes required as i only want to use two, basicly in and out when i change from eyepiece to imaging, the drawtube is as far in for eyepiece and as far out for imaging etc..i found this in your code.. do not uncomment, debug only, print out receive code if wanting to use new keys to do new things // Serial.print("Receive code="); Serial.println(ircode);...
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Sorry i updated my last message about 10 minutes after i posted it, you must of missed it at the top?, i did try to delete it but couldnt see an option to, either way it turned out to be a faulty wire from the driver board, im using the pg27 purchased from your link, thanks again
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You did not give any info on the stepper motor you are using? Purchase link? If the focuser only moves in one direction -Check the level of DIR pin [drv8825] using a multimeter It should be high for one direction and low for the other If it stays at one level check the wiring If the motor is still only moving in one direction -Check that the DIR pin is wired to pin D3 of the nano -If after that the motor still moves in one direction -It has to do with wiring of stepper motor - see pg6 of attached...
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If the focuser only moves in one direction -Check the level of DIR pin [drv8825] using a multimeter It should be high for one direction and low for the other If it stays at one level check the wiring If the motor is still only moving in one direction -Check that the DIR pin is wired to pin D3 of the nano -If after that the motor still moves in one direction -It has to do with wiring of stepper motor - see pg6 of attached PDF
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