I have been working on Wifi enabled focusers since about 2014
As you know I released the myFocuserPro2 Wifi version a couple of years ago but stopped supporting it.
However, for the last year work has now progressed to the point of having the 3rd gen prototypes finished and ready.
The myFocuserPro2E is a WIFI enabled focuser, in three variations, DRV8825, ULN2003 and L293D.
The focuser can be controlled via USB if required, but is designed to be used with Wifi, so comes with network aware versions of ASCOM drivers and Window application.
The DRV8825 and L293D versions support NEMA14/17 motors, whilst the ULN2003 supports the 28BYJ-48 motor.
Available will be assembled controllers, stepper motors, brackets, couplers, probes, etc. All features of a myFocuserPro2 controller have been implemented, such as stepsize, microstepping, temperature and temperature compensation, backlash.
3D printed case is approx 83mm L x 57mm D x 34mm H. A number of pre-production units are in beta testing. I am currently making youtube videos on this and the myFocuserPro2M controllers which will be posted as soon as they are finished.
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Anonymous
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2018-11-29
Hi Robert, first off thanks so much for this great project being in the public domain and also freely sharing the information with quick forum responses!
I have been looking over this project and spent some time in the main pdf. I've decided I'll be using the NEMA17PG27 motor connected directly to my Celestron 8se focus knob. I don't need the temperature sensor, lcd, rotary dial or IR features. I may implement the push bottons at another time.
The DRV8825HW203-M-MT-F-BT option supports bluetooth; I was going to post this question as its own topic and then found this recent post by coincidence! Ideally, I would like to make a completely wireless myfocuser2. I can easily power the motor and driver/arduino without the cable. I want to use it with either APT or SGP wirelessly (not just the myfocuser program). Is this the purpose of the bluetooth connectivity feature via the HC-05 module? What is possible with bluetooth if so? Or does it only allow the uploading of code to the arduino wirelessly (which isn't what I need)?
Ideally I would like my focuser to run via bluetooth (if possible, I haven't used bluetooth with the arduino before and don't know its cababilities) or wireless USB, and not wifi, because my computer will already be connected to my camera via wifi while focusing (thereby making the whole operation wireless). Thanks in advance, appreciate it!
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Hi Alex
I am surprised you need a pg27 with a celestron 8se.
Bluetooth allows local connection with wires - up to about 100m, typically line of sight 50m. Does not go through walls etc, so you have to be located nearby. For me, the obs is only 15m away from the house so no issue.
So Bluetooth (BT) lets you use the existing controller and application without a USB cable. You need a BT adapter (most laptops have one) on your computer also. Commands are sent using BT instead of the USB cable
Uploading of new firmware MUST be done using USB cable however.
However, the myFocuserPro2E about to be released is a true WIFI solution, using a network connection, thus can be anywhere in the world, as long as the focuser has access to a WIFI network.
Cheers
Robert
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Anonymous
-
2018-11-29
Hi Robert and thanks for the quick reply. First off just to clarify, did you mean "without" wires? Just want to make sure.
Fortunately my hope and plan is similar to yours in that it will be right near my laptop with no obstructions, so if all goes well, I shouldn't need more range or power. I also can't use the wifi option (as awesome as that feature is) because I won't have a connection where I am and the computer will already be connected to the camera via wifi.
So just to clarify, it seems very clear to me that the HC-05 bluetooth option will work wirelessly with your windows application (no problem about needing the cable to reprogram the arduino). However, am I correct that this focuser will also be perfectly compatible with APT and/or SGP via bluetooth? That is, will they allow me to connect to a bluetooth autofocuser or do they require a usb connection?
Regarding the PG27 for the SE, I could get away with the PG5 at my higher focal length, but I wanted the extra steps in case I use a focal reducer, which brings me down to f6.3 or so. Given that I want to cover both cases, is this a reasonable choice, or is there a better option that's lighter? I'll be directly connecting it to the focuser shaft without pulleys or gears. Thanks again!
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am I correct that this focuser will also be perfectly compatible with APT and/or SGP via bluetooth?
Yes
I know a lot of people have used a 28byj-48 stepper and uln2003 on sct's with reasonable success
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Anonymous
-
2018-11-30
If I do the polar to bipolar modification on the 28byj-48 that you list in your pdf and run it with the DRV8825 board, can I do everything exactly like I would have with the pg27 on the drv8825 like I had originally planned? This would be an awesome improvement in weight and size. Any experience with the accuracy and efficacy of the 28byj-48 in this fashion on the 8se? Thanks again, I'll also be using the HC-05 bluetooth module since it can be entirely free from the computer as desired!! Looking forward to an entirely wireless setup with APT and/or SGP.
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I am just not sure you need all that torque on an SCT. I assume you are connecting it to the primary focus knob at the rear of the sct? You don;t have a crayford attached do u?
I dont recommend using the 28byj-48 modification on a drv8825 board.
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Anonymous
-
2018-12-02
Correct, right on the back without crayford. Did some tests on the torqure required and I agree that I should be able to get away with the motor as it stands right on the focuser. Everything is ordered and ready to go for the 28byj-48 motor on the ULN2003 board; you've been great, thanks. I'll post a new thread with the build log, assuming you're not tired of them yet ;)
Just curious, what's your reasoning for recommending against the drv8825 board with this motor, post mod?
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The 28by motor has minimal torque, even converting motor does not increase it much. NEMA's are a huge jump up in torque so a converted 28by wouldnt even come close to a NEMA, even a 12V version of the 28by converted. Like comparing a 4cylinder aganst a v8.
Regards
Robert
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Anonymous
-
2018-12-12
Hi Robert, gotten almost finished with the first round of the build (update and thread to come, I'm behind in logging it!) and I have a quick question; I'm using the 28byj48 motor with the ULN2003 board, intended for FULL stepping. The motor is skipping steps and sometimes just vibrating in place, although it's trying to rotate as much as it should, using your Windows application. I'm concerned about two things, the exact layout of the ULN board pins (although it sometimes is rotating roughly correctly so I'm less suspicious of this), but definitely more about the firmware I'm using. I used the one entitled "Focuserv277_ULN2003H", however I believe this is for half-stepping. I'm not trying to half step, but there's no firmware without the "H". Is this the correct firmware? Am I supposed to be commenting something out of it for full stepping? Thanks again!
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See attached but the 'H' version should be OK
If its not stepping you might want to adjust these settings in the firmware
define MSSLOWRPM 2
define MSMEDRPM 5
define MSFASTRPM 40
If only fast speed is not working properly, then lower the value slighlty tp say 35 and try again
Change the value in the firmware and reprogram the controller.
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Anonymous
-
2018-12-13
I'm afraid that firmware had the same result. It is failing at all speeds so I don't think it's moving too fast for the motor to maintain accuracy. I tried a different, unrelated power source with no success....
Scratch all that. I decided to test for continuity among the important parts of the circuit and (surprisingly quickly) found one of the connections to the driver board was open! As luck would have it, upon pressing one of the test wires into my breadboard, the pin literally shifted up in the plastic housing and didn't go into the board, all without being detected by me. Made a solid connection and boom, working beautifully with adequate torque to run the motor on the scope and a nice, smooth connection. More testing to come, but things are looking great. Build thread (and donation) to come. Thanks Robert.
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Anonymous
-
2018-12-03
Sounds good, will do.
Definitely, I agree that the 28by still is much less torque than the NEMA even with the modification, however it appears that this mod does more than double the torque it can supply! Perhaps that's ideal for situations where it was borderline before the mod. Mine seems to be okay even without it so here's to a good build! Thanks again.
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16-April-2019 Made more progress and some significant changes to firmware and applications. I will upload new firmware, new Windows App, Android App and new PDF shortly once testing is complete.
Regards
Robert
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I have been working on Wifi enabled focusers since about 2014
As you know I released the myFocuserPro2 Wifi version a couple of years ago but stopped supporting it.
However, for the last year work has now progressed to the point of having the 3rd gen prototypes finished and ready.
The myFocuserPro2E is a WIFI enabled focuser, in three variations, DRV8825, ULN2003 and L293D.
The focuser can be controlled via USB if required, but is designed to be used with Wifi, so comes with network aware versions of ASCOM drivers and Window application.
The DRV8825 and L293D versions support NEMA14/17 motors, whilst the ULN2003 supports the 28BYJ-48 motor.
Available will be assembled controllers, stepper motors, brackets, couplers, probes, etc. All features of a myFocuserPro2 controller have been implemented, such as stepsize, microstepping, temperature and temperature compensation, backlash.
3D printed case is approx 83mm L x 57mm D x 34mm H. A number of pre-production units are in beta testing. I am currently making youtube videos on this and the myFocuserPro2M controllers which will be posted as soon as they are finished.
Regards
Robert
Hi Robert, first off thanks so much for this great project being in the public domain and also freely sharing the information with quick forum responses!
I have been looking over this project and spent some time in the main pdf. I've decided I'll be using the NEMA17PG27 motor connected directly to my Celestron 8se focus knob. I don't need the temperature sensor, lcd, rotary dial or IR features. I may implement the push bottons at another time.
The DRV8825HW203-M-MT-F-BT option supports bluetooth; I was going to post this question as its own topic and then found this recent post by coincidence! Ideally, I would like to make a completely wireless myfocuser2. I can easily power the motor and driver/arduino without the cable. I want to use it with either APT or SGP wirelessly (not just the myfocuser program). Is this the purpose of the bluetooth connectivity feature via the HC-05 module? What is possible with bluetooth if so? Or does it only allow the uploading of code to the arduino wirelessly (which isn't what I need)?
Ideally I would like my focuser to run via bluetooth (if possible, I haven't used bluetooth with the arduino before and don't know its cababilities) or wireless USB, and not wifi, because my computer will already be connected to my camera via wifi while focusing (thereby making the whole operation wireless). Thanks in advance, appreciate it!
Hi Alex
I am surprised you need a pg27 with a celestron 8se.
Bluetooth allows local connection with wires - up to about 100m, typically line of sight 50m. Does not go through walls etc, so you have to be located nearby. For me, the obs is only 15m away from the house so no issue.
So Bluetooth (BT) lets you use the existing controller and application without a USB cable. You need a BT adapter (most laptops have one) on your computer also. Commands are sent using BT instead of the USB cable
Uploading of new firmware MUST be done using USB cable however.
However, the myFocuserPro2E about to be released is a true WIFI solution, using a network connection, thus can be anywhere in the world, as long as the focuser has access to a WIFI network.
Cheers
Robert
Hi Robert and thanks for the quick reply. First off just to clarify, did you mean "without" wires? Just want to make sure.
Fortunately my hope and plan is similar to yours in that it will be right near my laptop with no obstructions, so if all goes well, I shouldn't need more range or power. I also can't use the wifi option (as awesome as that feature is) because I won't have a connection where I am and the computer will already be connected to the camera via wifi.
So just to clarify, it seems very clear to me that the HC-05 bluetooth option will work wirelessly with your windows application (no problem about needing the cable to reprogram the arduino). However, am I correct that this focuser will also be perfectly compatible with APT and/or SGP via bluetooth? That is, will they allow me to connect to a bluetooth autofocuser or do they require a usb connection?
Regarding the PG27 for the SE, I could get away with the PG5 at my higher focal length, but I wanted the extra steps in case I use a focal reducer, which brings me down to f6.3 or so. Given that I want to cover both cases, is this a reasonable choice, or is there a better option that's lighter? I'll be directly connecting it to the focuser shaft without pulleys or gears. Thanks again!
without wires means no usb cable required
am I correct that this focuser will also be perfectly compatible with APT and/or SGP via bluetooth?
Yes
I know a lot of people have used a 28byj-48 stepper and uln2003 on sct's with reasonable success
If I do the polar to bipolar modification on the 28byj-48 that you list in your pdf and run it with the DRV8825 board, can I do everything exactly like I would have with the pg27 on the drv8825 like I had originally planned? This would be an awesome improvement in weight and size. Any experience with the accuracy and efficacy of the 28byj-48 in this fashion on the 8se? Thanks again, I'll also be using the HC-05 bluetooth module since it can be entirely free from the computer as desired!! Looking forward to an entirely wireless setup with APT and/or SGP.
I am just not sure you need all that torque on an SCT. I assume you are connecting it to the primary focus knob at the rear of the sct? You don;t have a crayford attached do u?
I dont recommend using the 28byj-48 modification on a drv8825 board.
Correct, right on the back without crayford. Did some tests on the torqure required and I agree that I should be able to get away with the motor as it stands right on the focuser. Everything is ordered and ready to go for the 28byj-48 motor on the ULN2003 board; you've been great, thanks. I'll post a new thread with the build log, assuming you're not tired of them yet ;)
Just curious, what's your reasoning for recommending against the drv8825 board with this motor, post mod?
Hi Alex,
yes post details would be awesome.
The 28by motor has minimal torque, even converting motor does not increase it much. NEMA's are a huge jump up in torque so a converted 28by wouldnt even come close to a NEMA, even a 12V version of the 28by converted. Like comparing a 4cylinder aganst a v8.
Regards
Robert
Hi Robert, gotten almost finished with the first round of the build (update and thread to come, I'm behind in logging it!) and I have a quick question; I'm using the 28byj48 motor with the ULN2003 board, intended for FULL stepping. The motor is skipping steps and sometimes just vibrating in place, although it's trying to rotate as much as it should, using your Windows application. I'm concerned about two things, the exact layout of the ULN board pins (although it sometimes is rotating roughly correctly so I'm less suspicious of this), but definitely more about the firmware I'm using. I used the one entitled "Focuserv277_ULN2003H", however I believe this is for half-stepping. I'm not trying to half step, but there's no firmware without the "H". Is this the correct firmware? Am I supposed to be commenting something out of it for full stepping? Thanks again!
See attached but the 'H' version should be OK
If its not stepping you might want to adjust these settings in the firmware
define MSSLOWRPM 2
define MSMEDRPM 5
define MSFASTRPM 40
If only fast speed is not working properly, then lower the value slighlty tp say 35 and try again
Change the value in the firmware and reprogram the controller.
I'm afraid that firmware had the same result. It is failing at all speeds so I don't think it's moving too fast for the motor to maintain accuracy. I tried a different, unrelated power source with no success....
Scratch all that. I decided to test for continuity among the important parts of the circuit and (surprisingly quickly) found one of the connections to the driver board was open! As luck would have it, upon pressing one of the test wires into my breadboard, the pin literally shifted up in the plastic housing and didn't go into the board, all without being detected by me. Made a solid connection and boom, working beautifully with adequate torque to run the motor on the scope and a nice, smooth connection. More testing to come, but things are looking great. Build thread (and donation) to come. Thanks Robert.
Sounds good, will do.
Definitely, I agree that the 28by still is much less torque than the NEMA even with the modification, however it appears that this mod does more than double the torque it can supply! Perhaps that's ideal for situations where it was borderline before the mod. Mine seems to be okay even without it so here's to a good build! Thanks again.
Thanks for the feedback, happy focusing!
Videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1UVqP6QM2Q
ULN2003 , Local Serial Mode, Access Point Mode
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UhIwJS8AEg
Drv8825 and Station Mode
https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/myFocuserPro2E/Documentation/myFocuserPro2E-UserManual.pdf/download
Latest PDF
https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinoascomfocuserpro2diy/files/myFocuserPro2E/Firmware/Firmware/
Firmware
PCBS
https://aisler.net/brown_rb/my-project-repository/myfp2e-drv8825
https://aisler.net/brown_rb/my-project-repository/myfp2e-uln2003
Robert, just a quick question. Is the schematics for Fritzing available? I just want to tweak some details in order to change the dimensions.
16-April-2019 Made more progress and some significant changes to firmware and applications. I will upload new firmware, new Windows App, Android App and new PDF shortly once testing is complete.
Regards
Robert