First of all thanks for sharing such a great information on DIY Focuser.
I built one solderless version using 28BYJ-48 (modified to bipolar mode) and DRV8825 (mounted on expansion module). I have also connected DS18B20 temperature probe, IR module, and 0.96" OLED display to it. Everything (except OLED) is working great. As seen in the attached picture, the OLED displays only one column! I have tried few different versions of Solderless firmware - myFP2_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_312, Firmware_myFP2M_328, myFP2M_DRV8825_330, myFocuser_v176_DRV8825_HW203_OLED_IR (just to test), but nothing seems to work! I also tried using old version of Arduino IDE (1.8.9), but no success.
When I move the motor using the windows app, the motor moves and the numbers on the OLED change. Example - When I command the motor to move to the postion 997, the top most number will change rapidly; the first and second number will then display 7 when motor reaches destination - 997. If I ask the motor to move to 7005, the OLED will only display the last digit 5! What's happening? What could be wrong? Kindly advise me. By the way, I have tried two different OLED without success. OLED works great when testing it using the test.ino by other author.
Trying to use so many different firmwares will only end up causing more issues. It only pays to program the controller with the correct firmware. Not all firmware uses the same pins for temp probe, motor etc, so only use the one that matches what you built,
I can assume that when you have something displayed, that the oled is connected correctly.
What oled library are you using?
Please zip up the firmware folder you are using and post it here.
Some things that you can try.
Check that you are using firmware v330.
Did you try oled.ino in the Firmware/Tests/OLED folder?
Check using a magnifier glass the bottom corners of the oled display, check that
a corner has not chipped off.
Do you have a link to where you purchased the OLED from?
I notice that the rear of the display has an address of 0x78 which does not match the address in the firmware.
First, unconnect every device except the display.
Please run I2C_scanner in the tests folder.
This should detect where the display is.
In the file myDefines,h, line 93 there is this
#defineOLED_ADDR0x3C// some OLED displays maybe at 0x3F, use I2Cscanner to find the correct address
and change the 0x3C to what I2C scanner found. Then save the file, load Arduino IDE and reprogram the controller.
Please let me know how it goes.
Regards
Robert
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Thanks for your reply. I started with the firmware 330. When that failed, I tried other versions. I checked my OLEDs, they are intact; nothing is chipped off or cracked. BTW, you have given me very clear instructions. I truly appreciate that. Let me first try the things you have advised (using v330) and see what happens. I willl update you then.
Ok, I took the following steps as per your advise.
1st, I downloded "Firmware_myFP2_330" zip file (firmware file attached), and unzipped all files. I deleted original Arduino libraries from 'documents/Arduino/Library' (that I copied earlier) and copied all new library files from 330Zip to Arduino/Library folder.
2nd, I used ClearEEPROM to clear the Arduino Nano.
Then I uploaded I2C Scanner.ino and found out that OLED is 0x3C type.
Next, I uploaded OLED.ino and found out that my OLED is not displaying charaters properly (pics attached). It only show the last character 'e' of welcome message and 't' (reversed) of inverted text message. 'Big Text' and 'Rotated' are not displayed properly as well!
Last, I tested the OLED using my Arduino UNO test bench and found out that OLEDs are displaying the text and image properly (pic attached). I am confused that where the problem is! Is it in my Arduino Nano, FW, or OLED!
Update: It displays the same when I run OLED.ino on original Arduino UNO.
But both the displays work great when I run a code to display images (byte arrays) as seen in previous message (displaying my kids' and dad's pic). So, the Arduino Nano seems to be having no issues. Maybe I need to buy another OLED from different vendor to further narrow down the problem. Can you suggest me from where to buy a genuine OLED or the type that you use?
Hi
Thanks for the information. I looked at the website which states that Driver IC: SSD1306(Original) ，SSD1315（NEW）
My findings are these:
The OLED is displaying some information. That means the driver is working and the
connections are correct.
I looked at the image of kids/dads but maybe I see from the image that it appears some lines are skewed to the right, just as it is in the text.
It looks to me that there are some lines not showing correctly - lines which have moved to the right.
*That looks like the display is faulty. *
I have taken a quick look at the zip file, but I need to know which one you have been using, for example, myFP2F_ULN2003_330, or myFP2F_L9110S_330 etc. If I choose one you are NOT using then that makes the task harder. It may be the firmware but I can only pin that down as yes/no and I can do that by knowing the folder you are using right now. There is a remote chance that the firmware file has an issue,
I totally agree with you, and have no doubt on your firmware as its successfully used globally by many. That's why I have decided to buy new OLEDs from another vendor, maybe Amazon Canada. Do you suggest any specific vendor, then I can buy from them?
BTW, the exact firmware I used is "myFP2F_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_330".
I buy most of the components from Aliexpress or ebay. Aliexpress is preferred by me bacause the shipping times are now so fast - the direction has been to set up global warehouses in other countries /
Mostly I buy from - three shops but 2 no longer there, but the thirds is
I purchaed nearly all 0.96" OLEDs from
The reason I stuck with worldchips was that I always got exactly the same item every order.
With other vendors
- some pins were swapped around
- some did not work
- the phyiscal mounting holes would vary a lot (when one 3d prints stull it makes one change a box lid again and again because the holes whould not line up.
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Yes, correct, almost every different vendor has some differences in their chips and description. And believe, it just confuses me a lot! That's why I want to try the one that you use. Thanks for recommendation. I will buy from them and hope that it will work. But due to Christmas days, the package could get delayed, so I might have to wait more.
Anyways, I will get back to you once I get new OLEDs and try on them. Meanwhile, I will design the 3D printed case that incorportes the OLED as well, and I will share the files.
Thanks for all your amazing help :-)
Best regards and clear skies,
Pinak
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I want to update you regarding the OLED issue.
I connected the new OLED that I ordered from Amazon.ca, and to my surprise it started working right away as expected with the "myFP2F_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_330" firmware. The information screen alternates every 2 seconds as I set it up using Windows app, and everything is working just fine. Pictures attached.
Thank you very much for guiding me and getting the problem solved. That was a great learning too.
Thats good to know. I may have started the "retirement projects" around 2014, I still learn a few things each time with the projects and then try to update the other projects with better code all the time. It is a time consuming process.
Regards
Robert
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Agreed; that's truly great, and you have helped so many since.
Now I am designing a 3d printable case for the focuser. I still need to add a port for temperature probe and a window for IR sensor. Will get back to you when done.
Thanks,
Pinak
If you would like to refer to this comment somewhere else in this project, copy and paste the following link:
Hello Robert,
First of all thanks for sharing such a great information on DIY Focuser.
I built one solderless version using 28BYJ-48 (modified to bipolar mode) and DRV8825 (mounted on expansion module). I have also connected DS18B20 temperature probe, IR module, and 0.96" OLED display to it. Everything (except OLED) is working great. As seen in the attached picture, the OLED displays only one column! I have tried few different versions of Solderless firmware - myFP2_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_312, Firmware_myFP2M_328, myFP2M_DRV8825_330, myFocuser_v176_DRV8825_HW203_OLED_IR (just to test), but nothing seems to work! I also tried using old version of Arduino IDE (1.8.9), but no success.
When I move the motor using the windows app, the motor moves and the numbers on the OLED change. Example - When I command the motor to move to the postion 997, the top most number will change rapidly; the first and second number will then display 7 when motor reaches destination - 997. If I ask the motor to move to 7005, the OLED will only display the last digit 5! What's happening? What could be wrong? Kindly advise me. By the way, I have tried two different OLED without success. OLED works great when testing it using the test.ino by other author.
Last edit: PINAK OZA 2023-12-18
Hi
Trying to use so many different firmwares will only end up causing more issues. It only pays to program the controller with the correct firmware. Not all firmware uses the same pins for temp probe, motor etc, so only use the one that matches what you built,
I can assume that when you have something displayed, that the oled is connected correctly.
What oled library are you using?
Please zip up the firmware folder you are using and post it here.
Some things that you can try.
Check that you are using firmware v330.
Did you try oled.ino in the Firmware/Tests/OLED folder?
Check using a magnifier glass the bottom corners of the oled display, check that
a corner has not chipped off.
Do you have a link to where you purchased the OLED from?
I notice that the rear of the display has an address of 0x78 which does not match the address in the firmware.
First, unconnect every device except the display.
Please run I2C_scanner in the tests folder.
This should detect where the display is.
In the file myDefines,h, line 93 there is this
and change the 0x3C to what I2C scanner found. Then save the file, load Arduino IDE and reprogram the controller.
Please let me know how it goes.
Regards
Robert
Thanks for your reply. I started with the firmware 330. When that failed, I tried other versions. I checked my OLEDs, they are intact; nothing is chipped off or cracked. BTW, you have given me very clear instructions. I truly appreciate that. Let me first try the things you have advised (using v330) and see what happens. I willl update you then.
Link to the OLED: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32957309383.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.20701802wWIKeG
I purchased the option that says ORIGINAL, not new type.
Sorry, I forgot to attach a zip file of the firmware I used first. Please find it attached.
Ok, I took the following steps as per your advise.
1st, I downloded "Firmware_myFP2_330" zip file (firmware file attached), and unzipped all files. I deleted original Arduino libraries from 'documents/Arduino/Library' (that I copied earlier) and copied all new library files from 330Zip to Arduino/Library folder.
2nd, I used ClearEEPROM to clear the Arduino Nano.
Then I uploaded I2C Scanner.ino and found out that OLED is 0x3C type.
Next, I uploaded OLED.ino and found out that my OLED is not displaying charaters properly (pics attached). It only show the last character 'e' of welcome message and 't' (reversed) of inverted text message. 'Big Text' and 'Rotated' are not displayed properly as well!
Last, I tested the OLED using my Arduino UNO test bench and found out that OLEDs are displaying the text and image properly (pic attached). I am confused that where the problem is! Is it in my Arduino Nano, FW, or OLED!
Update: It displays the same when I run OLED.ino on original Arduino UNO.
But both the displays work great when I run a code to display images (byte arrays) as seen in previous message (displaying my kids' and dad's pic). So, the Arduino Nano seems to be having no issues. Maybe I need to buy another OLED from different vendor to further narrow down the problem. Can you suggest me from where to buy a genuine OLED or the type that you use?
Hi
Thanks for the information. I looked at the website which states that
Driver IC: SSD1306(Original) ，SSD1315（NEW）
My findings are these:
The OLED is displaying some information. That means the driver is working and the
connections are correct.
I looked at the image of kids/dads but maybe I see from the image that it appears some lines are skewed to the right, just as it is in the text.
It looks to me that there are some lines not showing correctly - lines which have moved to the right.
*That looks like the display is faulty. *
I have taken a quick look at the zip file, but I need to know which one you have been using, for example, myFP2F_ULN2003_330, or myFP2F_L9110S_330 etc. If I choose one you are NOT using then that makes the task harder. It may be the firmware but I can only pin that down as yes/no and I can do that by knowing the folder you are using right now. There is a remote chance that the firmware file has an issue,
Regards
Robert
Hello Robert,
I totally agree with you, and have no doubt on your firmware as its successfully used globally by many. That's why I have decided to buy new OLEDs from another vendor, maybe Amazon Canada. Do you suggest any specific vendor, then I can buy from them?
BTW, the exact firmware I used is "myFP2F_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_330".
Thanks,
Pinak
I buy most of the components from Aliexpress or ebay. Aliexpress is preferred by me bacause the shipping times are now so fast - the direction has been to set up global warehouses in other countries /
Mostly I buy from - three shops but 2 no longer there, but the thirds is
I purchaed nearly all 0.96" OLEDs from
worldchips
https://www.ebay.com/sns?store_search=worldchips
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325230684446
which are still in business
Regards
Rpbert
The reason I stuck with worldchips was that I always got exactly the same item every order.
With other vendors
- some pins were swapped around
- some did not work
- the phyiscal mounting holes would vary a lot (when one 3d prints stull it makes one change a box lid again and again because the holes whould not line up.
Yes, correct, almost every different vendor has some differences in their chips and description. And believe, it just confuses me a lot! That's why I want to try the one that you use. Thanks for recommendation. I will buy from them and hope that it will work. But due to Christmas days, the package could get delayed, so I might have to wait more.
Anyways, I will get back to you once I get new OLEDs and try on them. Meanwhile, I will design the 3D printed case that incorportes the OLED as well, and I will share the files.
Thanks for all your amazing help :-)
Best regards and clear skies,
Pinak
Hello Robert,
I want to update you regarding the OLED issue.
I connected the new OLED that I ordered from Amazon.ca, and to my surprise it started working right away as expected with the "myFP2F_DRV8825_SOLDERLESS_330" firmware. The information screen alternates every 2 seconds as I set it up using Windows app, and everything is working just fine. Pictures attached.
Thank you very much for guiding me and getting the problem solved. That was a great learning too.
Regards,
Pinak
Thats good to know. I may have started the "retirement projects" around 2014, I still learn a few things each time with the projects and then try to update the other projects with better code all the time. It is a time consuming process.
Regards
Robert
Agreed; that's truly great, and you have helped so many since.
Now I am designing a 3d printable case for the focuser. I still need to add a port for temperature probe and a window for IR sensor. Will get back to you when done.
Thanks,
Pinak