From: Paulo F. <pa...@ke...> - 2012-05-06 20:43:58
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On 2012/05/06, at 20:00, Erich Waelde wrote: > Hello, > > On 05/06/2012 08:12 PM, Jan Kromhout wrote: >> >> If I understand correctly the best is to buy some bare 328p chips, >> and flash them without tatching the lock bits. > > If fuses and "lock bits" refer to the same thing, then > no: "bare chips" and arduino boards are different things. > I personally use the following settings on arduino "duemilanove" > and "uno" boards > > MCU=atmega328p > # set the fuses according to your MCU > LFUSE=0xFF > HFUSE=0xD9 > # some MCU have this one, see write-fuses target below > EFUSE=0x05 > > The bare chips will run on the internal RC oszillator at 1 (or > 8?) MHz, they will ignore the attached crystal, unless you > correct the fuse bits. > > > There is a "readme.txt" file in the directory appl/arduino with > more information on arduinos. > > And just to make sure: you are aware, that flashing amforth to > an arduino board does remove the arduino bootloader, are you? > > > Cheers, > Erich > Yes, those settings work ok with an Arduino Duemilanove (atmega328p). Here are the command lines for Unix ( in my case OSX) and an usbtiny programmer: =============================================================================== avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -e -U flash:w:duemilanove.hex:i -U eeprom:w:duemilanove.eep.hex:i avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U 'lfuse:w:0xFF:m' avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U 'hfuse:w:0xD9:m' avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U 'efuse:w:0x05:m' =========================================================== Tested with three different arduinos! ( just in case... ) My best regards Paulo Ferreira |