Make a steadycam from my existing car-mount (the platform can be detached and replaced by a camera. It also has a 2D air-level.)
- design 0.7 considered to be a working prototype
- printed design 0.7 (Mark I)
- about to print design 0.8 (Mark II)
- needs some sanding on places where a tight fit is essential (done)
- parts fitted (done)
- need to get some nuts, bolts and bearings to... (done)
- do preliminary assembly and first tests (done)
- do final assembly and real world tests (done)
- tests of Mark I are a success.
design choices and assumptions
- The general audience with a cheap and lightweight camera, too lightweight to have much inertia to keep it steady without a tripod/dolly.
- Not pro or semi-pro camera operators with heavy equipment
- easy to assembly
- easy to transport
- sturdy enough for transportation in a backpack or general luggage
- the camera weights between 500g and 1.5Kg
- thus the full rig will be between 1Kg and 4Kg
- the camera comes with it's own side-display
- I do not have a metal workshop but I do have an FDM 3d printer
- print the gimbal and handle -assembly out of ABS while reusing an existing device as adjustable post and camera-mounting
- this weight requires no spring loaded arm nor a forearm-support and can easily be held in one hand
- no display-attachment to the post planned
- no external battery-compartment planned
- the design is to be printed on a diy 3d printer. No metal machining required.
- the design shall require no support material in 3d printing
- no printed part shall exceed 60% of the build-volume of a RepMan 3d printer
- the post used can be folded up for easy transportation. If possible that shall remain an option for the entire setup.
- 3D printer (RepMan, Reprap "Mendel"/"Darwin",... )
- a Makerbot may not be large enough to print the handle. But you may modify the handle to print on a Makerbot.
- sandpaper and Dremel or similar for cleaning the printed parts and to make things fit if the output is wrong by 0.5-3mm (depends on how well your printer and Skeinforge-settings are calibrated for for each other).
- car-mount from pearl agency and others
- 4x 608 bearing (you can get them for cheap in any place that sells skateboards)
- 4x M5x15 bolt to assembly part "inner"
- 4x M5 nut to assembly part "inner"
- 4x M8x20 nut fitting through the 608 bearings
- 81g of ABS for each try you make at printing
- a bicycle handle -grip (you can get them in any place that sells bicycle parts) for added comfort.
- optional: a camera-tripod handle with a 1/4" nut to be mounted on the side
- print all parts, clan them and make sure they fit. This should take about 7h (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers)
- insert the 608 bearings into their sockets. Make sure they turn freely. Be careful not to damage the bearings. (click image for larger version)
- remove the laptop-plate from the car-holder to expose the camera-mounting with the 2d air level.
- Assemble "inner" around the extended upper shaft (click image for larger version) of the car mount.
- disassembly the upper turning joint of the car mount and fit "outher" through. (click image for larger version)
- remove the nut that fastenes the extension-slider of the car mount and fit "outher" through. (click image for larger version)
- fit the M8 nuts for "outher"
- attach "grip" and fit it's M8 nuts
- attach a bicycle handle-grip to "grip"
- optional: attach the camera-tripod handle
Gimbal Mark I
- direct control of Z-axis, no bearing in handle
- handle horizontal to the gimbal
- M8 / 1/4" holes to attach a side-arm for more detailed yaw-control with 2 hands.
Status: Was found to be too large. Something with the meassurements was off. Probably specified diameter as radius or something.
Build time: (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers) inner: 2h 34min (28.7g of ABS) outher: 3h (33.8g of ABS) grib: 13h 21min (155.2g of ABS)
- grib is M22, fits bicycle-handle
- inner has the right size
- cleaned up the constraints on the grib
Build time: (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers) inner half: 29min (5.4g of ABS) outher: 1h25min (16g of ABS) grib: 5h (57.6g of ABS)
Some minor improvements for easier fitting but Alibre crashes reproducably on save. Will take a wile.
reconstructed "inner" from scratch.
- better grib on bearing
- easier insertion of bearing
- tapper against inaccurate diameter due to melting first layer
Build time: (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers) inner half: 36min (6.8g of ABS)
less snug fit on shaft, bearing and bolts, shorter grip. TODO: I am not sure if the "outher" ring is thick enough to support the weight.
Build time: (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers) inner half: 38min (7.1g of ABS) outher: 1h 36min (18.3g of ABS) grip: 4h (45g of ABS)
Status: considered a working prototype outher did not fit, too much linear play between bearing and next part. Made sure all diameters are matching with 1mm distance on bearings and 2mm rotational against collisions. Added a 1/4" hole to mount a camera-handle on the side (for both, left and right handed users) to control the horizontal turning of the camera.
Build time: (16mm/s, 0.4mm layers, 20% filled, 3 solid layers) inner both: 1h 23min (15.6g of ABS) outher: 1h 37min (18.5g of ABS) grip: 4h (45.7g of ABS)
Gimbal Mark II
- handle below gimbal-assembly
- handle offset to be on the axis of the center of gravity
- handle free to yaw due to 2 608 ball bearings.
- attachment of side-handle still possible and compatible with Gimbal Mark I
- Gimbal Mark I can be upgraded by replacing "grip_v07" with "grip_v08"+"handle_v08". "inner" and "outher" are basically unaffected
Status: work in progress changes:
- moved handle below the center of gravity
- handle can rotate freely
additional assembly-step: Remove 1mm ring in lower 608-bearing cavity. (It's purpost is to print without support)