Hi- thought I'd jump in here....
I've had problems with a particular set of outlets/switches, on the run
farthest (electrically) from my controller.
Solving it was a multi-step process. First, I changed my controller from a
CM11 to te Lynx-X10 (see the mh docs for the source). That helped some.
Then, I got one of the Leviton breaker box couplers (MUCH better than the
dryer unit). Finally, I discovered that when my daughter had BOTH her
laptop AND a Sony VideoCam charger plugged into the same circuit, the X10
signals basically had NO chance. One or the other, no problem - both, no
signal. I solved that one with one of the Leviton plug in filters.
On the RF side, the W800 is a definite must! I had an MR26, and even
with the external antenna, it was only about 1/2 as effective as the W800.
I wouldn't call PLC "fundamentally flawed" - you've got to understand the
characteristics of the medium in which you're working. For example, in my
house (I'm a Ham Radio Operator, and live in an affluent neighborhood,
where, as one person put it, "You can't swing a cat w/o hitting a
Microsoft Employee or Alumni") RF (either 900 Mhz OR 2.4 GHz) is almost
out of the question, due to interference issues (the only reason the X10
RF stuff works is because it's lower frequency). I've actually even had to
put one of the Leviton "signal blockers" on the mains INPUT, since there
are so many other folks around w/X10.
> Hi - thanks for the advice.
> I do have the 4826b signalinc (http://www.smarthome.com/4826B.HTML)
> and 4827 boosterlinc (http://www.smarthome.com/4827.html), and they do
> help. It appears that the two of you assert that the leviton breaker box
> unit might do better than the dryer unit, that's worth investigating.
> Surprisingly, I'm doing ok with the RF from the palmpads and slimfire to
> the MR26. I can tell by the MH logs that they are getting through.
> Response though is sluggish enough that you need to be fairly deliberate
> on the palmpad keypresses (I've effectively implemented a sequential
> code that MH interprets - and before you get alarmed it is for a 'fun'
> application, not an important security based one!). The W8000RF is my
> next purchase if this starts to get dicey.
> Basically the system works fine for a few hours then I'll get a total
> dead spot in one or more areas that measured low but active earlier with
> te ESM. If I move my single boosterlinc there, it works ok, so it's not
> totally dead. I tear the place apart trying to figure out what is newly
> active/plugged in... There's a finite number of plugs... Nada, but
> something is different! Repeat changing dates/times/etc a few times each
> week. I'm also beginning to suspect unfiltered powerstrips...
> I do have 'signal suckers' still unfiltered in the house; the home media
> area and laptop power supply and where multiple video games are plugged
> in. More filters will help there, but I get the above even with all
> False positive are rare but occur. Mostly with the X10 floodlights. 90%
> of my problems are missed powerline signals.
> I think my question is as much academic as actual - clearly a few more
> hundred $ of bridges/filters and increased diligence on every item
> plugged in would take it to a higher of reliability. But I'm reaching
> the conclusion as some of you might have that using the powerline is
> fundamentally flawed versus RF.
> Thanks - HS
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